MAd4Travel

JUNE 2023

At 06:30 our taxi collected us from home, then collected Rob en-route to Gatwick Airport. Our destination: Latvia.
Almost three hours in the air got us to Riga, Latvia’s capital. Then a short taxi ride to our apartment in the old town.
After recovering from carrying our bags up eight flights of stairs, we ventured out to explore the old town. It was pretty hot by now, but a light breeze took the edge off. First stop was for a late lunch in a delightful square tucked away from the main streets. Then with the food providing the energy, we continued our walk through the historic and cobbled narrow streets, stopping regularly to admire the many places of interest. The old town is very compact so we didn’t have to walk far between attractions and it wasn’t busy which added to the enjoyment.
Around 18:30 we stopped for refreshments and a snack. Then around 22:00, made our way back to the apartment to rest in readiness for tomorrow’s full day of exploration.

Riga Central Square

Riga Old Town

Remnant of the Soviet Periods

Riga, Three Brothers. The houses together form the oldest complex of dwelling houses in Riga. Each house represents various periods of development of dwelling house construction

Riga, House of the Black Heads

Riga

After a reasonable nights sleep, with all the windows open as the A/C wasn’t working, we awoke refreshed ready for another day looking around the old town. It was busier now, as a cruise ship had arrived.
The previous day we just wandered around and stumbled upon places of interest. Today we had a plan and our first stop was a Lutheran church with a tower that would provide views all over the city. After a couple of flights of stairs, a lift took us to viewing deck about mid-way up the 123 meter tower.
Having had a good look at the city from above we continued to explore at ground level. Just north of the old town is an attractive park dissected by the Pilsetas canal. This was our next destination.
We joined one of the many paths that ran along the edge of the canal, passing old gas lights that used to illuminate the area in times gone by. It was much quieter here, away from the noise of the city. The silence only broken by an occasional screech of a hooded crow. We sat in the shade for a while, watching the world go by, before continuing our journey.
The area on the far side of the park is where you find the embassies, but also the next attraction on our list. This part of Riga is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture, with more than 800 buildings, it's the largest collection anywhere in the world. The best and most flamboyant examples can be found on Albert Street so this is where we spent most of our time.
The day was heating up again by now so we retreated back into the old town for shade and lunch. Well fed and watered we continued our exploration in the afternoon, with more places of interest and a visit to the central market.
Drinks and supper in the centre of town almost completed our day. All that was left was a sunset visit to the canal in hope of seeing one of the resident Beavers. Although we didn’t hold out much hope, we were lucky and spotted one transporting a water lily to its den.

Riga old town

St Peter Lutheran Church

View from the Church Tower

Riga views from the Tower

Cobbled streets of Riga

Art Nouveau building

Art Nouveau Building

Albert Street, known for its Art Nouveau building and named after Bishop Albert who founded Riga in 1201

Poster facing the Russian Embassy in Riga

Market in Riga

Cherries at the Market

Art Nouveau building

Canal

Beaver

It was now time for a change of scenery. Once we had picked up our hire car, upgraded to smart new SUV, we began our drive south. As soon as we left Riga the scenery changed completely. The busy hassle and bustle of Latvia’s capital city had been replaced with a calmer rural environment. Farmland surrounded by forest is what we had now, interspersed with the occasional small town. It was also the land of White Storks. They were in the fields, next to the road, on roof tops and occupying massive nests on purpose built platforms or in trees.
As we drove south we quickly realised two things. Firstly, Latvian’s drive fast and will undertake some pretty crazy overtaking manoeuvres. Secondly, the lack of road signage makes it hard to know what the speed limit is, fortunately our navigation system helped us with that.
Just over an hour of driving got us to the main attraction for the day, Rundale Palace (1). We had booked tickets for the house and garden, but first had lunch in their cafe. Spread over several floors we followed a marked route entering one room after another. Baroque art work decorated the walls whilst furniture and other items gave an impression of what life was like over the time of its occupancy. It was then into the garden that filled several acres behind the house. Hedges lined numerous pathways whilst many varieties of rose filled the flower beds. In front of the house a fountain formed a central display. Somehow though, it didn’t have the grandeur we were expecting, more a work in progress.
Our overnight accommodation and selected dinning was at Makelis just outside the town of Ozvara, close to the Lithuanian border. A nice dinner and a comfortable room was exactly what we needed after a busy day.

White Stork

Rundale Palace

Inside Rundale Palace

Gardens of the Rundale Palace

Rundale Palace

Rurale Roads dissecting farm land

The weather changed overnight, it was now cooler with intermittent rain. After a leisurely breakfast we packed the car and headed east. Our destination was an outdoor sculpture park at Pedvale (2) near the town of Sabile. Heavy showers accompanied us for most of our two hour journey, but it was dry when we arrived at Pedvale.
Spread out over several meadows either side of a valley are a hundred or so sculptures. International artist have used stone, wood and metal to make their creations, some of which are recognisable but most needed the interpretation pamphlet to explain what they are. We had the whole site to ourselves and followed the 6km path that guides you past most of them. It was a very pleasant walk, with only a brief shower to cool us off.

Sculpture Park

Sculpture Park

Our journey then continued to Kuldiga where we would overnight. A beautiful little town with its centre frozen in time. We walked into town from our accommodation and had an excellent evening meal. The route to and from the restaurant gave us an opportunity to see the period buildings that lined each street. We also took a look at the river, but planned to explore that area more thoroughly the next day.

Bridge over the Venta River, Kuldiga

Street of Kuldiga

Kuldiga

After breakfast we drove into Kuldiga, parked, and then explored either side of the river. The River Venta flows along the eastern edge of the town and has two famous landmarks at this point.
The first is the Venta Waterfall which is the widest in Europe. Just before the Baznicas Iela bridge the river falls two meters over a shallow cliff, but this isn’t the impressive bit. What is impressive, is that shallow cliff stretches across the width of the river. A distance of 249 meters. We followed a path right to the waters edge to get the best view.
The same path extended down stream, so we followed that. This gave us a good view of Kuldiga’s other famous landmark, Aleksupite Falls. The highest waterfall in Latvia with a drop of 4.2 meters. This is less impressive as the falls are manmade and could be better described as a weir. Nice to see though and an impressive bit of engineering.

Venta Waterfall

Venta River with the Venta Waterfall in the background

Venta Waterfall, the widest in Europe

Aleksupite Waterfall, the tallest in Latvia at 4.2m

Kuldiga Pastries shop

Having seen both of the landmarks there was still time to pick up some pastries from a recommended bakery before heading north west to our next location.
Our destination was the tiny hamlet of Sikrags in the Sliteres National Park. We would be self catering for the two night stay so picked up provision at Ventspils en-route. Sliteres is both a land and marine park situated in the north west of the country with the Baltic Sea on one side and the Gulf of Riga on the other. Our journey began as usual with a drive through rural Latvia, passing farmland and forest. This changed when we turned north from Ventspils. The road now was almost totally straight with thick pine forest either side. Once reaching the sign for Sikrags we turned in to the forest and progressed along a dirt road. After a bit of trouble finding our accommodation we eventually arrived. The house we had rented was beautiful, set in a clearing in the forest and only a few meters from the beach. The only thing we weren’t pleased with was the mosquito welcoming party. A quick visit to the, almost completely deserted, beach before dinner and that was our day done.

Latvia road going for ever between pine trees forest

Our accommodation at Sikrags

Beach looking out on the Baltic Sea

The following day was warm and sunny with a negligible mosquito presence. To make the most of the house and surrounding we had a leisurely start to the day. Our host had recommended a forest walk nearby called Peterezers Nature Trail, so we started the day there. The two kilometre drive through the forest got us to the tarred road. A further 12 kilometres on, the completely empty, main road got us to the car park and start of the walk. An undulating trail through the sandy forest brought us to a lake, where a boardwalk allowed us close access to the waters edge. We could hear bird life but most were hidden high in the tree tops. However, dragonflies kept us amused close to the shoreline and challenged us to get photograph whilst they constantly moved.

Peterezer Trail

Pine Forest in North-West Latvia

Peterzer Lake

Dragonfly

From the forest we drove as far up the coast as we could, to a place called Kolkas. A short walk from the carpark got us to the beach and Latvia’s cape point. It is here that the Baltic Sea meets the Gulf of Riga. Gazing out to a distant lighthouse we knew that the next piece of land would be Sweden.

Cape

It was then back down the coast in search of a boat graveyard. In the late 1980’s the Soviet Army (occupying force) enforced strict quota’s on fishing in the area which put local fisherman out of business. Those fisherman had no option but to abandon their boats and leave the area in search of other forms of employment. Today those boats lay where they were abandoned and the forest is gradually taking back what was originally theirs. A short walk from the small town of Mazirbe got us to the boats. Then with photo’s taken we returned to the car for our last stop of the day.

Boat graveyard

A further 36 kilometres south was the town of Irbene (3) and our final visit of the day. Abandoned in 1993 the whole place has a spooky fell about it. We were the only visitors and parked our car amongst the piles of ruble that were once buildings. All around us were empty and gutted apartment blocks, very Soviet in style. The school was a shell of a building with just a few Soviet books and other oddments placed on a table outside. We wandered around for a while, trying to get a feel for the place. But ended up thinking we had found ourselves in an apocalyptic Sci-fi movie instead. It was now time to head back to our comfortable house in forest.

Irbene

The abandoned school in Irbene

Remind of soviets rubis

We had a long drive the next day so planned to stops to break the journey. It was another warm and sunny day as we negotiated the almost empty roads of north west Latvia. Around an hour later we arrived at Engures Lake with the intention of visiting a tower for a bit of birding. Unfortunately the tower was closed but the forest walk by the lake was nice, even if the mosquitos were annoying.

Engures lake

A drive of another hour, away from the coast and through farmland, got us to our next stop in the Kermeri National Park. Amongst other attractions, the park is famous for its bog. We had enjoyed our visit to a bog in Estonia so Latvia’s was high on our list of things to do. The walk through the forest to the bog edge was less than enjoyable due to the horse flies. But once on the bog boardwalk it all became much more pleasant. For almost a kilometre the wooden walkway took us over fragile bog grass and around small lakes until we reached a viewing tower. Three flights of stairs got us to a platform which then provided us with magnificent views over the bog and beyond.

The Great Kemeri Bog Boardwalk, Kemeri National Park

Sundew, carnivorous plants

The final stretch of the drive took us through Riga. The traffic was heavy now so progress was slowed. Once away from the capital we moved freely again, arriving in the town of Cesis around 16:00. Finding the car park for our accommodation wasn’t easy but once achieved our apartment was just a few flights of stairs away (4).
We were now in the centre of Cesis, in a large apartment full of period features. Once recovered from the drive we searched out a nice place to eat, a restaurant with a secluded courtyard out the back. Just right for an evening of relaxation.

Cesis old town

Cesis street art, reminder of the holocaust

Our accomodation in Cesis

Cesis church

It rained overnight and there was still drizzle in the air when we ventured out the following day. Cesis Castle was just 500 meters away and that was our destination this morning. The complex consisted of the medieval castle, the new castle and the castle grounds.
We started with the medieval castle and were given candle lit lanterns to light the dark staircases leading to each tower. We followed a path that led us past what remained of the castle walls and lower quarters then began our ascent to visit both towers. The stairwells were narrow and dark, so lantern light was very useful. We could have used the torch on our phones but lanterns added to the atmosphere. Each tower chamber had a digital display explaining the history and daily life of the time. A period roughly covering 1200 to 1600. It was very well done and made the place come alive.
Having returned our lanterns the gardens were next. From the garden you could see the moat, some larger weaponry, medieval building equipment and where the vegetable patch would have been.
With the rain starting once more it was a good time to go into the modern castle. More of a manor house or a chateau then a castle, but still part of the complex. Lots of rooms and lots of floors explained life in the castle right up to relatively modern times. Right at the top was a roof terrace which gave great views over the town.

Cesis Castle

Cesis Castle

Candle Lantern lighting our way

Cesis castel and use of 21s century technology to explain it's history

Cesis view from the top of the castle

With rain now more persistent we picked up some nice cheese and went back to the apartment for lunch.
With the weather improving in the late afternoon we went out once again. This time to explore outside Cesis. Cesis sits within the Gauja National Park and a river of the same name cuts through a gorge nearby. The section of the gorge closest to town is known as Eagle Cliff, and this were we went. A short drive and a short but steep walk got us to the beach below the gorge cliffs. This provided a great view of the river and gorge itself.

Eagle Cliff

Eagle Cliff

For our last night in Latvia we dined al-fresco in Ruzo Square. Food and drink were great, a multicoloured fountain squirted water behind us, the castle gardens provided a green backdrop and the towering walls of St Josef’s church created a historical setting. Perfect way to finish the trip.

Our last day was a day of travel. A leisurely start, then a two hour drive to Riga airport. Most of the traffic was going in the opposite direction which was good for us. It was the summer solstice celebrations this weekend so most Latvian leave the towns for the countryside. Both cars and people were decorated with flora headdresses ready to party.
The plane was delayed slightly before taking off and then we circled over Sussex for a while before landing at Gatwick. All in all it only added about 30 minutes to our journey so that was fine. Especially as our bags came through quickly and our taxi was waiting to transport us home.
A short but enjoyable trip, the country and the people were a joy to meet.

Observations & Interesting Facts
(1) Rundāle Palace is one of the two major baroque palaces built for the Dukes of Courland in what is now Latvia, the other being Jelgava Palace. The palace was built in two periods, from 1736 until 1740 and from 1764 until 1768. Although what we see today is not all original. Events during the 19th and 20th century have remoulded much of what remains.

Rundale Palace

(2) The Pedvāle Open Air Art Museum is a State Historical Monument near Sabile, Talsi Municipality, Latvia. It was founded in 1992 by Ojārs Arvīds Feldbergs as a setting for environmental art.

Sculpture Park

(3) Irbene is a ghost town. In 1971, the Soviet Union established a secret radar center "Звезда" and built a settlement for military officers and their families, naming it Irbene because of nearby river Irbe. The town had a school, shop, sport and concert halls. The town was never marked on any maps and only the holders of a special permit were able to access it. After the withdrawal of the Soviet Army from Latvia in 1993 the town became abandoned.

Irbene ghost town

(4) City centre apartments never seem to have attractive stairwells. Both in Riga and Cesis the approach from the street brought you into a gloomy and poorly maintained stairway. Yet once you progressed through your apartment door all changed for the better. This not just Latvia, it's very common all over the world, especially in older period buildings. They say, “you can’t judge a book by it's cover”. This also goes for apartment blocks, “you can’t judge an apartment by its stairwell”.

MAY 2023

Early Sunday morning Guylaine kindly dropped us off at Perth’s Domestic Airport for our three hour flight north to Kununurra. After a 3 hour delay the plane finally took to the sky and briefly gave us a view of Perth’s suburbs. For a short while clouds obscured our view of the ground below but this soon cleared. From then on its was like watching a geological documentary with the aircraft window as our TV screen. The view was amazing, just missing a commentary on what we were witnessing.
For most of the flight the vast almost uninhabited Gibson and Great Sandy Deserts passed beneath us. The colours were spectacular, the white of dried salt lakes stood out against the rust of the desert sand. Claypans filled with muddy red water dotted the landscape. Winter rains had mixed with surface minerals to create multicoloured ephemeral lakes. In places the earth appeared scared, the effect of wind on drying salt lakes. You just couldn’t stop staring out the window in case you missed something.
Three-quarters of the way into the flight the view began to change. Now the earth appeared to be covered with a thin green blanket, as vegetation began to take hold in what was now a less arid environment. A few lakes came into view and then the mighty Ord River signalled our arrival in Kununurra.

Leaving Perth

Aerial desert view

Desert views from the air

Martian Landscape

Desert Views from the air

Getting closer to Kununurra

Ord River

As we stepped off the plane we knew we had arrived in the tropics. The cool autumn air of the south had gone and been replaced by hairdryer warmth of the North. The temperature had doubled since we left Perth, 15C had been replaced by 31C.
Public transport is sparse in Kununurra so we needed our accommodation to organise a taxi for us. But once at our cabin by Lake Kununurra a calmness drifted over us. Birdlife provided most of the sound and the sight of the water was relaxing. We had shopped locally for provisions to cover our two night stay, so could enjoy the environment before things got even more exciting on day three.

Sunset, Lake Kununurra, our accommodation at Discovery Parks

Comb-Crested Jacana

A clear blue sky greeted us the following morning and with temperatures of 34C forecast we decided to do our activities first thing. However, a bit of laziness meant that first thing was closer to 09:00 am.
The plan was to take a walking trail that followed the eastern bank of the Ord River, which at this point also forms Lake Kununurra. The walk started almost right outside our cabin which was convenient. A few steps from our cabin deck was the edge of a small adjoining lake so we thought we would look at that first. As we approached we disturbed a Freshwater Crocodile (1) resting on the bank. This woke us up good and proper and was a good start to an enjoyable walk.
There were lots of birds to admire, including good sightings of a White-Bellied Sea Eagle and numerous Black Kites. Dragonflies and Butterfly fluttered around us as we walked and various insects were busy amongst the foliage. We tried to stay in the shade as much as possible but at times had no choice but to endure the full strength of the sun. It was in one of these shady spots that we got our second view of a freshie. She, based on her size, was basking on the edge of a small body of water and our path passed above her. She allowed us a few moments to take pictures before crashing off into the overgrowth.

Kununurra Walk

Australian Fresh Water Crocodile

Black Kite

Western Rosellas at sunset

By the time we got back to the cabin it was getting very hot so we switched the A/C on and relaxed until the late afternoon.
We had booked ourselves an early evening treat at a smart restaurant, The Pump House, just a short walk from our cabin. In the end the food and ambience was not the only treat. Each evening, just before dusk, we had seen a couple of Fruit Bat (2) fly over our cabin. But on the road just outside The Pump House we witnessed the movement of the whole cauldron (group of bats). Thousands of these flying foxes passed over our heads no more then 20 meters off the ground. An incredible sight. Then once the final one had disappeared across the river, we were treated to an amazing sunset. After all this, the food and drink had some act to follow.

Cauldron of bats over the Pump House

Sunset over the Ord River

The Pump House, as the name suggests, is a tastefully converted old water pumping station with old machinery still in place for the authenticity. The drink were good, beer & cocktails, but the food even better. We started with a shared platter containing beautifully prepared Emu, Crocodile & Barramundi (fresh water fish). Followed by Kangaroo for me and Crab for Anne. Everything was sourced locally and prepared on site. Anne couldn’t manage a desert but I went for the Pavlova with local berries. Full to bursting we staggered the short distance back to the cabin.

Inside the Pump House

Shared platter, Emu, Crocodile, and Barramundi

At 08:15 the following day a minibus picked us up from our accommodation and whisked us off to Kununurra Airport. This would be the start of an adventure we had been wanting to do for many years.
After all the safety stuff, we boarded our Sesna Caravan (Twelve seater aircraft), together with 10 other passengers, and took off heading south. This was a scenic flight so we flew as low as allowed, giving us a great view of what lay beneath us. We first passed over the Ord River and its irrigation system together with the tropical fruit trees that it supports. From there we were soon over the vast expanse of water that is Lake Argyle (3). Beyond the lake, two expansive cattle station came into view, each covering hundreds of thousands acres. Where only the hardy Brahman beef cattle can survive in this harsh environment.

Discovery Park where we stayed and the Pump House where we ate

Kununurra agriculture , mango trees

Cattle ranch in the outback

Lake Argyle

It was then time for the main event. Entering the Purnululu National Park (4) from its northern boundary it wasn’t long before the Bungle Bungles came into view. From the sky you could see the true majesty of these incredible rock formations. Formed 350 millions years ago and then eroded into the beehive shapes we see today, their striped colouring is quite unique. The dark grey bands on the otherwise red sandstone are the result of blue-green algae.

Aerial view of the Bungle Bungle

Bungle Bungle range

Bungle Bungle

Having circled the massif a number of times, so that everyone had photographic opportunities, we touched down on a gravel airstrip a few kilometres further south. This was the start of our two night stay in the park.
We were met at the airstrip by our guides for the day, JB and Gabriele. As our stay in the Purnululu National Park progressed, we found out how knowledgable, engaging and interesting the two of them are. From the airstrip we were transported back towards the massif and the start of the day’s activity. With our pack lunches stowed in our day bag we began our walk along Piccaninny creek (mostly dry this time of year) into Cathedral Gorge. We were in a large group of people with varying abilities, so progress was slow. At strategic points along the way, JB would bring us altogether to explain the geological structure of the gorge and the various flora and fauna we encountered. These stops were generally in the shade as the heat of the day was building, in the mid 30C by the end of the walk. As we progressed the gorge narrowed and we were able to marvel at the Bungle Bungle rock structures from ground level.

Bungle Bungle Beehive shaped domes

Beautiful lights on the walk towards Cathedral Gorge

Walking towards Cathedral Gorge

Aboriginal Rock painting

Cathedral Gorge Rock Structure

Spider caught a dragonfly

Our Guide JB

Around half way in, Gabriele took us aside to explain some Aboriginal rock art and culture. Being Aboriginal himself he had first hand knowledge of this subject. We continued past some potholes, which had become a death trap for hundreds of Cane Toads (5), to the end of the gorge and our lunch spot. Here a shallow lake sits beneath towering rock walls that appear to curve inwards. Hence its name, Cathedral Gorge.

Cathedral Gorge end

Once fed and watered and with photos taken, we all made our way out of the gorge the same way we came in. On the way in, one lady had a fall and couldn’t continue further. And on the way out there were also a number of people struggling, the heat and exertion getting them. We took an optional detour on the way back, providing a great view of the Bungle Bungle domes.

Views during our walk in the Bungle Bungles

Bungle Bungle Scenery

It was then back into the truck for transportation to Bungle Bungle Lodge. This was a tea break for most, before taking a flight back out of the park. But for us it was a time to relax, as we were staying two nights at the lodge. Our accommodation was a steel framed cabin set away from the main lodge area. It was by a dry creek and shaded by trees. A very quiet place with birds offering the only sound. That night we enjoyed a few beers and JD’s before and after a beautiful dinner. We also had the pleasure of Gabriele’s company for most the evening. He kept us engaged with his very eloquent view of the plight of Aboriginal people today, and offered solutions to their situation. We also learnt a lot about his life, all twenty one years of it, and his family (his Great Uncle was Ernie Bridge (6)) and ancestors. In turn, we reciprocated with stories of our lives. A very special and privileged conversation.

Fire pit at the Lodge

Our cabin

Sunset at the Lodge

Breakfast the following day was taken at 07:00am and a very packed itinerary started at 08:00am. Our guide for the day was once again JB, which we were very pleased about. Also because we were a small group with proven fitness he had lots of things to show us. We boarded a smaller truck accompanied by a german couple and two helicopter pilots, who were coming along for the ride.
A one hour drive along the edge of the massif, passing a few Wallaroos on the way, got us to The Bloodwoods. From the carpark we followed a dry riverbed into a narrow, boulder strewn gorge filled with Livistona Palms. The rock formation was very different to the previous day, this was conglomerate (7). The further we went the steeper the track became. We squeezed through and clambered over giant boulders until we reached the stairs at the end of the gorge. Here a viewing platform looks back into the palm filled valley we had just negotiated. Beyond the platform is a cave which is not open to the public, this is to protect the new palm shoot that cover the floor. We returned the way we came, a round trip of about 5km.

Bloodwood Walk

Boulders to conquer

It was now 11:30 and after a short rest and a top up of water we moved onto our next adventure. Four kilometres down the road is the Echidna Chasm, where we had lunch in the carpark before embarking on the walk.
Initially we walked through a palm filled gorge, but that soon becomes narrower and narrower, and then narrower still. Every now and then you have to climb over boulders blocking the way, or duck under some that didn't quite make the floor. Some boulders are stuck between the gorge walls above your head, where luckily they stayed whilst we passed each way. In the end we found ourselves in a gap less than a metre wide, with walls so tall it was quite dark at the bottom. All through the gorge the light reflected off the cliff walls providing a glow of striking colours. These changed with the angle of the sun. When our progress was eventually halted we once again retraced our steps back to the carpark.

Start of the Echidna Chasm Walk

Echidna Walk

Echidna Walk

With another 3km’s under our belts it was time for something a little easier.
The Purnululu National Park is more than just the incredible rock formations that forms the Massif in the western part of the park. There is the vast savannah to the east. To get a better look at this other landscape we visited the Kungkalanayi Lookout. A short climb from the carpark got us to a ridge, then a further climb to our right brought us to the lookout. From this vantage point we could see for miles across a savannah of small trees, grassland and bare earth. The savannah is home to a variety of fauna, including the Red Kangaroo, but other than a few birds we weren’t able to spot anything. It was the hottest part the day by now so we weren’t surprised. The savannah is also home to some unique flora, some of which we were able to study on our climb up to the lookout.

View from the Lookout

One of many flowers in the park

There was just time to call into the Visitor Centre before we had to take our fellow passengers to the airstrip. The German couple were flying back to Kununurra and the helicopter pilots needed to get back to work. We then returned to the lodge in time to have a shower and put our feet up for a while, before it was 18:00 and time for dinner. The food was of the highest quality once again and helped down with beer and JD & cokes. After dinner we had a very pleasant time socialising with a young German/French couple who had just arrived at the lodge to work.

It was a more leisurely start to our last day. Our flight back to Kununurra wasn’t until 10:30 so we took the opportunity to explore the area around the lodge. The flight took a similar route back, with another chance to see the Bungle Bungles from the air as well as the Argyle Diamond Mine.

Our plane to get to the park

Leaving the Bungle Bungle

Flying over the Purnululu NP

The Argyle Diamond Mine (now closed)

Arriving in Kununurra

Back in Kununurra we checked into a downtown motel for the night. A visit to a local art and crafts gallery was our only afternoon activity as it was too hot to wander around the town.

Our flight back to Perth wasn’t until 10:30 so the start to the day was once again leisurely. A bit of breakfast from a local cafe and then vacate our room ready for the airport transfer. Which was the first highlight of the day. Because their normal minibus was in for repairs the owner took us and another guest to the airport in her Ford Mustang 5.0 V8. Surprisingly there was plenty of room in the boot for our luggage which couldn’t be said for the headroom in the back. Even so this was the best airport transfer we have ever had, the sound of the engine matched the beauty of the bird song in the carpark.

our airport transfer

We were back in Perth by the early afternoon so decided to take a look at the Western Australia Art Gallery before we continued on to Glenn and Guylaine’s place for the evening.

We were now getting towards the end of our stay in Australia but still had one more trip before we left (see South Western Australia blog).

Observations & Interesting Facts
(1) The freshwater crocodile, also known as the Australian freshwater crocodile, Johnstone's crocodile or the freshie, is a species of crocodile endemic to the northern regions of Australia. Unlike their much larger Australian relative, the saltwater crocodile, freshwater crocodiles are not known as man-eaters, although they bite in self-defence, and brief, nonfatal attacks have occurred, apparently the result of mistaken identity. The freshwater crocodile is a relatively small crocodilian. Males can grow to 2.3–3.0 m long, while females reach a maximum size of 2.1 m. Males commonly weigh around 70 kg, with large specimens up to 100 kg or more, against the female weight of 40 kg. (courtesy of Wikipedia)

A Freshie

(2) Fruit Bats are also known as Flying Foxes. The normal range is southern Asia down to northern Australia. They are the largest of the many Bat species with a wing span of up to 1.5 meters and can weigh well over a kilo.

The Bats

(3) Lake Argyle is the largest man-made lake in Australia. It has a storage volume of 5,797,000 mega litres. At maximum flood level it would hold 35 million mega litres and cover a surface of 2,072 square kms.

Argyle Lake

(4) For many thousands of years the Bungle Bungle range had a cultural significance to the Jara and Gija Aboriginal people who lived in the area. In fact very few other people knew of their existence until the 1980’s. In 1987, due to the unique landscape, significance to the Aboriginal culture and tourism potential, the Bungle Bungle and surrounding area was established as a National Park. Then in 2003 the Purnululu National Park was listed as a World Heritage Site. Today the park is managed jointly by the indigenous people and the Parks and Wildlife Services.

Bungle Bungles from the air

Purnululu NP

Map of northern section of Western Australia

(5) Cane toads, are tough, heavily built amphibians that have developed a bad reputation in Australia. While cane toads aren’t bad, they are an invasive species that have wreaked havoc on Australia’s delicate ecosystems and biodiversity. Since their introduction to Australia (to eat the Sugar Cane Beatle - which wasn’t a success), they’ve caused local extinctions of several native animals. JB explained, the toads were eating the insects that local birds rely on so the larger birds attacked the toads. However, part of the toad is poisonous and this took its toll on the birds. Eventually the birds worked out that by only eating the internal organs, heart, liver, etc, they could avoid this fate.

Cane Toads

(6) Elected in 1980, Ernie Bridge was the first Aboriginal member of the Western Australian Parliament. He was also the first Aboriginal member of a lower house and the first Aboriginal cabinet minister in an Australian Parliament.

(7) Conglomerate is a clastic sedimentary rock that is composed of a substantial fraction of rounded to sub-angular gravel-size clasts. A conglomerate typically contains a matrix of finer-grained sediments, such as sand, silt, or clay, which fills the interstices between the clasts. (courtesy of Wikipedia)

APRIL - MAY 2023

It was now time to leave Quinninup (see part a) and move on once again. Next destination was the small town of Walpole on the southern coast of Western Australia. A visit to Fernhook Falls broke our journey and it was here that Glenn left us to cycle the rest of the way on the Munda Biddi. The falls were a bit of a disappointment. Expecting to see a wide band of water gushing over a cliff we were greeted with a trickle of water mostly obscured by trees. However, you can’t win them all and we continued our drive to Walpole. After some mix up with our booking, we finally gained access to our cottage. It was a bit old fashioned but comfortable enough with the bonus of having a view over Walpole Inlet. Whilst the sun shined we sat in the garden watching the bird life but retreated inside as a band of rain sweepped in from the ocean.

View from our accommodation in Walpole

Although our first day in Walpole started overcast it had brightened up by the time we were ready for our hike. A path from the cottage led us through a dense woodland of small trees and bushes. Most noticeable were the Paper Bark trees with their soft spongy bark (1). It was also lined with numerous ant hills which caught our attention and impressed us with their construction. Now we were on the coast the flora was very different to what we had seen inland for the past week or so.

Path from our accommodation to the inlet

More coastal Flora

Coastal Flora

Ant Hills

Lovely coastal flowers

At the end of the path we reached Coalmine Beach. A deserted strip of white sand with wonderful views out into the Nornalup Inlet.
Nornalup Inlet is the larger of the two inlets that form a sheltered body of water between the land and the Southern Ocean. The smaller Walpole Inlet is the other.

Coalmine Beach

Having looked for seals and dolphins from the beach without any success we continue our walk to an area known as the Knoll. The Knoll is a peninsula that forms one side of a narrow channel between the two inlets. Our walk was part road and part woodland. The flora was fairly similar to what we had seen earlier in the walk but did include some larger trees as well. At one point we were able to break clear of the foliage and get a good view of the channel between the two inlets.

Inlet Channel

We then retraced our steps back to the cottage for lunch and a well earned rest.

Activities further afield were planned for day two. A short drive west down the South Western Highway, then a 7km gravel road got us to the Mandalay Beach carpark. From here a boardwalk took us to the top the dunes overlooking the magnificent Mandalay Beach. White sand stretched out before us and a turquoise sea crashed against the rocks that bookended the beach limits. We took the wooden steps that lead to the beach then spent time enjoying this breathtaking environment. With the exception of one backpack walker, we had the place to ourselves. Taking in the sea air and a bit of beach combing kept us busy for almost two hours and built up an appetite for lunch that followed back at the cottage.

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

As the cloud cover crept in, we restricted further activities to two short walks, one in the afternoon and one in the evening.

Not far from where we were staying was a forest of giant Tingle Trees. Called giants because they have the greatest girth of any tree in Australia. This got our interest and investigating them became our goal for our last day in the area. Glenn decided to cycle to the forest whilst the rest of us took the car.
However, the forest wasn’t the first port of call that day. Guylaine, Anne and I took a detour to the coast. Conspicuous Cliff was the destination and to see whales from the lookout was the desire. From the carpark a short boardwalk deposited us on top off the dunes, with the beach below and Southern Ocean in front of us. Using our binoculars we scanned the ocean surface but the whales eluded us. Southern Right Whales pass by this point between May and November, but we were probably a bit too early in the season. At least there was a lone surfer to entertain us whilst we waited.

Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Looking back from Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Surfer from Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Leaving the beach it was a short drive to the Valley of the Giants road. This road cut through a dense forest which is home to giant Tingle trees, as well as Karri and She-oaks. Although a stroll through the forest would more than likely reward us with a Tingle Tree sighting, we decided to visit a protected area to view them.
In the heart of the forest, where conditions are ideal for Tingle trees to grow, a protected area has been created. Elevated walkways guide you between massive Tingle trees (2) whilst protecting there delicate roots at the same time. The elusive Quokka (3) also thrives in this environment but we didn’t spot any on our walk.

Tingle Trees

It was inland again for our next destination with a visit to the large coastal town of Albany. Albany provided a little bit of sightseeing and a top up of provisions before we continued our journey.

Merchant Vessel Brig Amity 1816

Porongurup is about a 40 minute drive north of Albany and our accommodation was just on the outskirts of the tiny village. Our cottage for the four nights was superb. Set in its own grounds, about 50 meters from the road and a similar distance from the owners property. Located on a farm, we had sheep and lambs around the back of us and ducks in a pen in front. Its furnishing were comfortable and in a classic style, it had a big kitchen and character art everywhere. We even had a private deck out the back.

Our accommodation

Inside the Cottage

To the back of the cottage was Porongurup National Park and we could see the massive granite outcrops from our deck. The view from the front was of pastures and the Stirling Mountain range in the background.

View from the back of the Cottage

Having arrived in good time we embarked on a visit to the Porongurup National Park (4). A short drive got us to a car park in the woods then it was a steep climb up a gravel path to reach the granite outcrops. Already a bit knackered and with limited time we decided to leave the summits for another day and go to viewpoint instead. A short clamber over bare rocks got us to our goal and we were rewarded with greats views over the surrounding countryside.

Porongurup NP hike

We then retraced our steps, being cautious on the steep downhill slopes, to the carpark. As we drove out of the woods we were joined by a group of male Western Grey Kangaroos. They were feeding in a field to our right but as we passed they decided to show us how fast they could hop and raced along side the car. Their speed was greater than ours and they would occasionally stop to let us catch up. Our main concern was that they may jump out in front of us at any time, so we remained very vigilant. It was a good job we did as one did just that. Back on the sealed road, we stopped for some photo’s then return to the cottage to prepare dinner.

View of the Sterling Range

The weather was warm and sunny the next day and ideal for a visit to the Stirling Range National Park (5). We could see the Stirling Mountains from our cottage but it was almost an hours drive to reach our chosen hike. The drive to the park took us through arid farmland where rows of trees had been planted to help repair the surrounding soil. Once in the park everything was greener. Here the foliage had been protected from the destructive effects of intensive farming. A lot of the lower peaks were rounded and covered in short tree growth, whilst the higher peaks were jagged bare rock. Just after passing through the centre of the range we turned east and climbed the mountain side to a carpark. Here, after admiring the view, we left the car and continued on foot. Our route up the side of the mountain was initially through the woodland that coated the lower slopes. We gained elevation by means of steep steps which eventually got us to our goal, a view point 200m below the summit of Bluff Knoll. At 850m above sea level our view was extensive and spectacular. At this point the steps had taken their toll on our legs and knees which only got worse on the decent. Weary but elated, we arrived back at the carpark and began the drive back. It was at this point we realised how lucky we had been, as a heavy rain swept in from the west and drenched the slope we had been climbing. With the sun returning shortly afterward we were treated to a double rainbow cresting the lower peaks.

Sterling range from the car park

Start of the hike to Bluff Knole

Looking back part way up Bluff Knole hike

Looking down to the car park where we started

Flora in the Sterling Range NP

Steep trail up Bluff Knole

Bluff Knole View Point

The rain arriving

Rainbow

The next morning dawned cloudy with heavy rain arriving soon after accompanied by strong winds. This would dictate our activities for the day. As the weather brightened, Glenn and Guylaine went for a walk in the Porongurup National Park whilst Anne and I explored the farm estate. A gate behind the cottage lead us into the first paddock. But before we could progress very far we needed to inform our farmer host of a new born lamb in distress (6). Having done our good deed for the day we strolled through a number of fields eventually reaching a wood on the boundary of the estate. We had noticed a few birds on our walk to this point but now the quantity was greater. As we started to circuit the woods we disturbed a resting male kangaroo in the adjacent bush. Then we became aware of a screeching sound emanating from the tree tops. Further investigations revealed that it was Red Tailed Black Cockatoos making the noise. We had been wanting to see these birds all trip and were now finally successful. Although they were in the tree tops, binoculars provided a good view. Unfortunately Anne didn’t have her camera, so we returned to the same spot later in the day. Luckily a few were still there and photo’s were secured, albeit fighting against the rain to do so. This second estate stroll and a visit to Mount Barker for provisions completed our day.

The estate and merino sheep

Scarlet Robin

Female red-tailed black cockatoo under the rain

Merino ewe and lambs

The warmth we had been enjoying over the past few days had well and truly gone by the time we awoke on day four. However, the sun was shining and a further exploration of the Porongurup National Park was the order of the day. Glenn had organised himself an all-day cycle ride in the area, so it was Anne, Guylaine and myself that headed off to the far end of the massif. The granite peak in this area is called Castle Rock and is access from a carpark just off the main road. With previous experiences to go by, we were expecting a steep and challenging climb, but to our surprise this wasn’t the case. A trail gradually climbed through woodland with gaps in the trees offering views of the countryside below. After two kilometres we reached the bare granite and a massive boulder perched on an equally large slab “Balancing Rock”. Weathering over time had created this strange natural wonder. A few meters further and we had reached our goal, the access ladder to the Skywalk. A short metal walkway has been attached to the upper edge of the Castle Rock dome to provide panoramic views all over the national park and beyond. This is the Skywalk. To reach the access ladder a bit of scrambling was required. Between the path and the ladder were two very large boulders which needed to be climbed. Fortunately hand holds had been attached to the rock to help with the accent. Once the rock and ladder climb had been completed we were on the Skywalk and the views were magnificent. However, the exercise was not for the faint hearted. The scrambling needed a reasonable agility, the ladder was steep and a bit exposed and there was nothing but fresh air beneath the walkway. Once we couldn’t take in anymore views, we went back the way we came, stopping briefly at another view point.

Balancing Rock

Access to the Sky Walk

View from Castle Rock on top of Sky Walk

Sky walk on Castle Rock

Lunch at the village tea room and more Red Tailed Black Cockatoo watching in the woods completed our day.

Red-tailed black Cockatoo (Male and Female)

Red-tailed black cockatoo in flight

Red-tailed black cockatoo mate for life

The following day brought an end to our four location road trip and we loaded the car and drove back to Perth.
We had one full day in the Perth area before heading north and decided to explore the city before we left. A short self guided walking tour of some of the historic buildings and structures was followed by a very enjoyable visit to the WA Museum.

Elizabeth Quay Pedestrian Bridge

One of the many exhibits at Western Australia Museum in Perth

After six days away in northern Western Australia (See North East - Western Australia) we were back for a short excursion in the south.

Glenn had work commitments so it was just Guylaine, Anne and I that journeyed south. First stop was to visit the “Giants of Mandurah” (7), of which we had time to see two. The giants were located in semi residential areas and required us to drive through a number of housing estates. It was here that we were surprised to see a Grey Kangaroo feeding on someones lawn. Well I suppose it was their home before people moved in.

The Giant of Mandurah with human scale

Then it was onwards south. A stop at Margaret River for provisions and lunch, before we arrived at our final destination of Augusta.
Augusta is a small town almost at the end of a peninsula. We were staying in a very comfortable three bedroom house just a few footsteps from the Hardy Inlet. With daylight still to spare we decided to investigate our neighbourhood. Two minutes walk from our front door found us on a wooden jetty gazing across the Hardy Inlet and out to where the Blackwood River enters the Southern Ocean. What made it even more pleasant was we were in the company of a large group of Australian Pelicans. The Pelicans were on the jetty and adjacent rocks drying their feathers and tending to their plumage. Several Silver Gulls and Pied Cormorants kept them company. As the light faded we returned to our accommodation and set about preparing dinner.

Pelicans Standing guard on Jetty

We left the car in the garage on our first full day in Augusta and explored on foot. We ventured further around the Hardy Inlet, watched locals fish of the numerous jetties and soaked up the atmosphere of the place. Augusta seemed a very pleasant place to live. A late lunch was taken at the local bakery and then we relaxed and enjoyed the comforts of our accommodation.

Australian Pelican Fishing

Australian Pelican caught a fish

Australian Pelican in the Inlet

The next day we were ready to venture further so the car came out of the garage. Our destination was the end of the peninsula some 10km south of Augusta. At the tip is Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and that is where we parked. At this point the Cape to Cape coastal trail starts or ends depending on your direction of travel. We wanted to walk a small section of it and located the first marker post and headed of. The trail hugged the coastline, crossing a number of sandy beaches as it travels north. We followed it, enjoying the stunning coastal scenery as we went. At one point we passed what remained of a 19th century waterwheel, used to provide water for the construction of the lighthouse. It was the start of Whale season so we were constantly scouring the horizon in search of plumes and breaches, but with no luck. After almost an hour our progress was halted. It was high tide which meant that one beach section would require us getting wet and negotiating some pretty slippery rocks. So we called it a day and turned back.

Cape Leeuwin Light House

Water Wheel

Leeuwin National Park, Coast to Coast Walk

That wasn’t the end of our exercise for the day though. From Cape Leeuwin we drove back through Augusta to a spit of land at the other end of town, closer to where the Blackwood River enters the Hardy Inlet. Here we did a circular walk that provided good views of the inlet and were able to watch a Wedge-tail Eagle as it drifted on thermals above our heads.
Finally after a bit of R&R at the house we strolled down to the jetty at the bottom of the road. We were hoping to see the Pelicans again, which we did, but had the added bonus of seeing a Southern Eagle Ray’s. Two Ray’s were patrolling the shallow waters close to the bank providing us with a great view.

Eagle Ray

Eagle Ray

For our last day in Augusta the weather forecast suggested that activities should be undertaken in the morning as rain was expected in the afternoon. Which proved to be correct. We first drove up the coast to Hamlin Bay. Here a headland protrudes into the see and provide a short circular walk. We followed the markers, all the time looking out to sea in case a Whale should pass. Again no luck, but we were informed of how treacherous this stretch of the coast was and the subsequent ship wrecks by various notice-boards.

From there we headed inland for a short viewpoint hike in the Leeuwin National Park before having lunch in Margaret River. The local bakery served up fantastic food which made the journey worthwhile. It was then back to the house to shelter from, what was now, heavy rain.

That completed our stay in Augusta and the following day we drove to Perth. En-route we couldn’t resist another stop at the Margaret Bay bakery to collect some lunch for the journey. We were back in Peppermint Grove by early afternoon, even with a lunch stop, so had time for a visit to the beach. Just to stretch our legs and collect some “fermented grape juice” to celebrate our last day in Australia.
Glenn had prepared a very tasty goulash which was complemented by the local shiraz.

Packing and a couple of short Swan River walks filled our final day in Australia. Guylaine then kindly drove us to the airport and by 19:00 we were in the air heading for the UK.

Last walk before leaving Australia along the Swan River

The almost 17 hour flight gave us plenty of time to reflect on what had been an incredible two months in Australia. It had wetted our appetite for a return trip, as there was so much more to see. And with such good friends living there I am sure we will be back in the not too distant future.
We touched down at London Heathrow Airport at 04:30 the following morning. Then swiftly passed through immigration and baggage collection. Our taxi arrived very soon after and we slept the journey back to Portslade. The sun was shining and the day had began to warm by now, we both felt it was nice to have a home to come back to.

Observations & Interesting Facts

(1) Paper bark tree is a small- to medium-sized tree. It grows as a spreading tree up to 20 m (70 ft) tall. Its trunk is covered by a white, beige and grey thick papery bark which feels soft and spongy to the touch. Native to coastal Australia it grows in swamps, on floodplains and near rivers and estuaries, often on silty soil. Amongst its many uses, the first nation people use the bark to wrap food for cooking.

Paperbark trees

(2) Tingle trees come in a red and yellow variety. They have the widest girth of any tree in Australia, up to 30m in some cases; grow to around 70m high and can live for 400 years. They can only be found is this tiny corner of Australia, where conditions are just right for their growth. Their roots are usually short for a tree and can be easily damaged if the ground around the tree is compressed. Many of the trees have gapping holes in their base, usually caused by fire. A fungi that lives inside the tree is susceptible to bush fires, which is the cause of these holes. Despite this the tree remains stable with new growth strengthening the trunk over time.

Tingle Tree in protected forest

(3) The Quokka is the smallest member of the Macropod family, which also included Kangaroos & Wallabies. Macropod means large feet.

(4) Porongurup National Park covers an area of 26.21 square kilometres . The park is the relic core of an ancient mountain range formed in the Precambrian period over 1200 million years ago. The Porongurup Range forms part of the Southwest Biodiversity Hotspot, which is one of 34 regions in the world noted for a rich diversity of flora and fauna species. The Porongurup Range is culturally significant to the Mineng and Koreng/Goreng sub-groups of the Noongar people. Porongurup or "Borrongup" means totem in Noongar and could represent an animal or a plant that is inherited from a child's parents when born.

(5) The Stirling Mountain Range, or Koikyennuruff, extends for over 65 km. Notable features include Toolbrunup & Bluff Knoll which is the tallest peak in the range. The traditional owners are the Mineng and Koreng groups of the Noongar peoples who have inhabited the region for tens of thousands of years. The Noongar know the range as “Koi Kyenunu-ruff” which means “mist moving around the mountains”. The area was important to Indigenous Australians with the surrounding lowlands providing many sources of food. The women gathered seeds, roots and fruit while men hunted kangaroos and other animals.

(6) The good news tis hat the farmer rescued the new born lamb. Which appeared to have been abandoned by its mother. The latest news we had was that the lamb was doing well, had a belly full of milk and was wearing a nappy.

(7) The “Giants of Mandurah” are enormous sculptures made from recycled items, mainly wood. They have been created by the artist Thomas Dambo, who is famous for his work in recycled materials. There are six sculptures in all, five of which are available to view. The other one, at the time of writing, wasn’t open to the public as it had been vandalised by fire. Each sculpture has a separate location throughout the town of Mandurah. Which encourages both locals and tourist to explore some of the less visited places.

The Giant of Mandurah

APRIL - MAY 2023

A four hour flight west from Melbourne deposited us in a cool and damp Perth. This was the start of a new adventure with our good friends Glenn and Guylaine.
Glenn picked us up from the airport and drove us to their apartment in the Perth suburb of Peppermint Grove. An evening of catching up was followed by a tour of the neighbourhood the next morning.

Peppermint Grove Surfer Beach

Peppermint Grove sculpture park

It was then time for our road trip to explore the south west of Western Australia. With Glenn and Guylaine’s car loaded with luggage, food and two bicycles we headed south out of Perth. First stop was the village of Jarrahdale where Glenn left us and started cycling a section of the Munda Biddi trail (3) to Dwellingup where we would meet up again. Anne, Guylaine and I drove onto Dwellingup, and after a tasty lunch in town, checked into our rented cottage. The cottage was very comfortable and in a gorgeous location. The rest of the day was spent in the garden watching birdlife and waiting for Glenn to arrive from his 75km cycle ride. Dinner in our spacious cottage completed a great first day.

Australian Ringneck Parrot

Sliver Eye

Rosella

Rufus Whistler

The cottage was conducive to relaxing, which is what Anne needed following her bout of Covid, so getting motivated to go out was difficult. Our first full day was overcast and a bit chilly but we did manage to leave the cottage for a walk around the surrounding area and Glenn went further afield on his bike.

A bright blue sky and sunshine greeted us when we awoke on the next day, motivating us to be more active. By mid morning we were in the car on our way to Lane Poole Reserve to hike the Chuditch Loop. Once parked we crossed the Murray River (not the big one in Victoria) and began an undulating walk through the forest. For the most part, the four of us had it to ourselves, bar a few birds that would appear then disappear just as quick. Towering Jarrah trees lined either side of our route together with the unusual grass trees. This enjoyable walk was completed in around three hours by which time we were all hungry and ready to return to the cottage for food.

Fan Tail

Grass Tree, endemic to Western Australia

Chuditch Hike Scenery

The following day’s weather was even nicer and a bit warmer. Glenn & Guylaine had a bike ride planned so Anne and I decided to explore a stretch of the Bibbulmun Track (1). This stretch runs from close to the cottage and off into the nearby forest, following a rail track. Other than a couple walking their dogs we had the forest to ourselves, but this didn’t enhance our chances of seeing wildlife which was noticeably absent. A very pleasant walk though.

Tourist Forest Train

Our Cabin Dwellingup

It was now time for a new location and after a failed attempt to visit a local market we started the drive south to Quinninup. After a couple of stops en-route to stretch our legs and passing through numerous town with names ending in “Up” (2) we arrived at the nearby town of Manjimup. It was here we had lunch and bought provisions before driving the short stretch to complete our journey.
Quinninup is a tiny hamlet with a pub and a few properties scattered amongst the forest trees. Our accommodation for the next four nights was a rustic cabin set in woodland about 50 meters from the road. Not quite as comfortable as our cottage in Dwellingup but with everything we needed. It even had a group of Kookaburra’s as a welcoming party. After settling in, we took a short walk around the surrounding area, seeing a female Western Grey Kangaroo and her youngster on two occasions.

Kookaburra

Another Kookaburra

Ringneck Parrot on the cabin veranda

Roo family

Not far from our cabin is Karri Lake and the location of our first day exploration hike. As we walked down the access road the sun began to appear from behind the clouds and the day warmed up from then on. The notice board at the start of the circular walk warned of venomous snakes in the area. This, however, didn’t put us off as they should be hibernating by now. Our route hugged the shore line and weaved through the surrounding Karri Tree forest. Although the bird life was sparse the light on the lake was beautiful. Back at the cabin we met up with Glenn and Guylaine who had just return from their bike ride. Glenn climbed back on his bike and embarked on another section of the Munda Biddi (3) in the afternoon, whilst the rest of us chilled out around the cabin.

Karri Lake

Karri Lake

Karri Lake

The nearby Warren National Park drew our attention for the following day’s activity. A thirty minute car ride got us to the start of the trail deep inside the park. Our trail ascended and descended several times as weaved though an ancient Karri forest (4) (some of the trees are over 200 years old) before arriving at the Warren River. Here we rested before re-tracing our steps back to the car park. Lunch and food shopping in the small town of Pemberton completed our morning. The rest of the day was spent around the cabin and a night walk in the local forest when it got dark.

Gloucester Tree, once a fire lookout, 61m high, now a tourist attraction

Night Sky

Our last day in Quinninup followed a familiar pattern. Glenn headed out to cycle another section of the Munda Biddi whilst the rest of us went for a local hike. Although not far from Karri Lake the scenery was quite different for our chosen walk in the Orchid Forest. Plenty of tall karri trees but more spread apart giving a much more open environment. We searched for orchids as we followed the trail but found none, concluding it was the wrong time of year. However, this did make us look more closely at other flora and felt we benefitted from that.

Orchid Walk

Red Ink Sundew, carnivorous plant endemic to Western Australia

Banksia Seed Pods

The afternoon was spent relaxing at the cottage and the evening presented a nice surprise. Just as we were about to go to bed I spotted a female Western Grey Kangaroo (5) and her Joey right outside our bedroom window. She seemed quite relaxed so we crept out onto the balcony and for a time were no more than a few meters away from her. She accepted our presence for a few minutes before bounding of into the bush.

Night Visitor

It was now time to move on once again. Next destination was the small town of Walpole on the southern coast of Western Australia (see part b).

Observations & Interesting Facts

(1) The Bibbulmun Track is a long-distance walking trail in Western Australia. It runs from Kalamunda in the east of Perth to Albany on the southern coast, and is 1,003.1 kilometres long. The name comes from the Bibbulmun, or Noongar an Indigenous Australian people from the Perth area.

The Rainbow Snake (giver of life in Aboriginal culture) is the Bibbulmun Track symbol

(2) Many suburbs and towns in Western Australia end in the suffix 'up', such as Dwellingup, Manjimup and Quinninup which means place in the Indigenous Noongar language.

(3) Running almost parallel to the Bibbulmun Track (1) is the The Munda Biddi Mountain Bike Trail. This is a long-distance, mostly off-road, cycling trail that runs for over 1,000 kilometres from Mundaring to Albany. The completed Munda Biddi Trail opened end-to-end in April 2013 when it claimed the title of the longest continuous off-road cycling trail of its kind in the world. The name Munda Biddi means "path through the forest" in the Noongar Aboriginal language.

The Munda Biddi Mountain Bike Trail symbol (Path Through the Forest)

(4) Karri trees, which are from the Eucalyptus family, grow up to 90m tall. This makes them the tallest tree in Western Australia and one of the tallest trees in the world. Karri have a long straight trunk with smooth bark in shades of pink, orange, grey and white.

Karri Trees

(5) There are four species of Kangaroo. The Red, is the largest marsupial in the world. A Red male kangaroo can grow to over 2 meters tall and weighing as much as 90kg. They can be found in arid and semi arid part of the country. The Western Grey is smaller with a large male weighing around 54kg. They can be found in the southern part of Western Australia, South Australia & the Murray-Darling Basin. The Eastern Grey occupies the eastern side of the country including Tasmania. Finally, the Antilopine Kangaroo occupies the northern part of the country and has a unique characteristic of swollen nostril passages. This allows more heat to be released whilst residing in the hot and humid climate.

APRIL 2023

It was now time to leave our comfortable beach house in Apollo Bay and start a new adventure. That is all bar, Nikki, who had to return to Melbourne for work.
The rest of us, which included Neil & Steve, were about to start a road trip into the outback. But before we turned inland there was more of the Great Ocean Road to explore.
Just under 70km west of Apollo Bay is Wreck Beach, our first stop. After navigating the gravel road to the carpark there were 350 steps to descend before we reached the Beach. An almost deserted sandy beach greeted us at the bottom of the cliff with just one set of footprints revealing we were not the first visitor today. The beach is only accessible at low tide and its main draw is the iron work left stranded on the rocks following numerous ship wrecks over the years. We investigated the anchors and other metal remains, enjoyed the solitude and then made a hasty retreat back up the steps before the incoming tide cut us off.

Remains of ship wreck on the beach

Anchor on the beach

A further 26km west along the Great Ocean road was the next point of interest, the Twelve Apostles. Rising abruptly from the tempestuous Southern Ocean, these seven limestone stacks (the ocean has already devoured five of them) are one of the main attractions along Great Ocean Road. A viewing platform is accessed via a shop and souvenir complex and provides a great view of these outcrops sitting a few hundred metres out from the current coastline.

The ramaining of the 12 apostles

These natural wonders were not the only bit of entertainment for our visit. A little bit of commotion erupted close to shop complex and two park rangers were at the scene. Soon we were witnessing a skilful remover of a large Tiger Snake (fifth most venomous in Australia) before it attacked an over inquisitive tourist.

Tiger Snake captured

Tiger snake safely bagged to be released in a safe place

It was now time to finish our first day’s journey so we progressed to the overnight destination of Port Fairy. Once installed in our three bedroom apartment we went to explore this very attractive little coastal town. Our walk took us passed many period buildings and out to the Moyne River. We followed the river passing waterfront properties until we reached some old fortification at its mouth, then hunger kicked in and we searched out somewhere for dinner.

Moyne River

The previous day had been bright and sunny but we weren’t so lucky for day two. Periodic showers and constant threat of something heavier was with us all day. A 600km drive north to the town of Wentworth lay ahead of us, but before that we had a visit to a UNESCO World Heritage Site called “Budj Bim”.
Located about 50km north of Port Fairy, Budj Bim consists of a lake and surrounding forest. A local, but now extinct, volcano formed the landscape over a hundred thousand years ago. It is estimated that the area had been inhabited by aboriginal people (1) for many thousand of years before white settlers forceable took there land. Fortunately, those same white settlers did not destroy all of what the legitimate land owners had left behind and today it provides a window into Australia life 6,000 and more years ago.
Getting protection for this site wasn’t easy. It took constant petitioning from aboriginal tribal leaders over many years plus the support of UNESCO to get where it is today.
A long driveway bordered by gum trees, with a few Koala’s and a couple of Wallabies to welcome us, brought as to a carpark and an impressive visitor centre. A boardwalk led from the visitor centre out into the adjacent lake filled with bird life. Shortly after our arrival we started a tour of the site. The tour was conducted by a local aboriginal guide and was one the most informative and interesting we have ever had.

Budj Bim Center

Budj Bim Lake

Eel Tank at Budj Bim

Our guide explained that his people had lived on this land for many thousands of years with the most recent structures dated some 6,600 years ago. They lived in stone and wood houses, constructed to provided comfortable shelter for all weathers. They lived on eels from the lake plus fruit and veg from the forest. They operated a system of aquaculture, harvesting eels using eel traps, only taking what they needed when they needed them. A few of these traps and houses still survive for us to see. We learnt about the lifecycle of the eel, the lake’s formation and how the local people lived and traded all those thousands of years ago. What was particularly fascinating was how sophisticated and sustainably they lived back then.

The remaining foundation of an aboriginal dwelling

Budj Bim eel holding pond where the aboriginal trapped the eels

For the rest of the day we were on the road heading north. Brief spells of sunshine were dwarfed by constant rain sometimes heavy, but mostly showery. The terrain changed as we progress with tree covers becoming more sparse. Finally, as the light faded we reached our destination and after a quick bite to eat we retired exhausted to bed.

Silo art on the road to Wentworth

Only a three hour drive lay ahead of us the next day so the start was more leisurely. We had time to visit the confluence of Australia’s two longest rivers. The Darling and Murray where they meet at Wentworth.

Confluence of the Murray and Darling Rivers

It was then onwards north to our next location of Broken Hill. Pretty much a straight road into the outback. The terrain was much more desert like now, with trees only growing near a water source and small shrubs covering the rest. Massive trucks use this road 24 hours a day transporting ore from the mines in the north, hence the road kill was numerous. We punctuated our journey with a couple stops, both times to be amazed by the unusual sight of standing water in this part of the country. Torrential rain further north a few months earlier had allowed dry rivers to flow and even created a lakes.

Desert Water after heavy rain fall

Our car for the trip

Road to Broken Hill

The whole town of Broken Hill is Heritage protected and because of that you feel like you have stepped back in time.

Broken Hill Street

Neil had visited here many times and became our town guide, a role he had been playing all through the trip with his constant flow of interesting facts. Especially those relating to renewable energy and the output of wind and solar farms we passed on the road.
Broken Hill also provided us with our most luxurious accommodation of the whole trip. We had rented a 1911 church that had been converted into a house with the most upmarket fittings you could imagine. This made leaving our very comfortable surrounding more difficult each day.

Outback Church, our accommodation

Inside the Outback Church

We had two nights in Broken Hill which gave Neil the chance to show us all of his favourite places.
In the centre of town we visited two galleries displaying the work of local artists and the Palace Hotel where a famous scene from “Priscilla the Queen of the Desert” was filmed.

Art Gallery display

The Palace Hotel

The Shoe from Priscilla Queen of the Desert

Away from the centre we visited the mine that made the town famous (2), a vast solar farm generating massive amounts of clean energy and a little piece of desert that had been set aside as a sculpture park.

Solar Farm

Broken Hill Mine (BHP)

Desert Art

Then there were the more unusual attractions.
Camels played a big part in Australia’s transport history, initially being imported from the middle-east and central Asia. With them came their Afghan handlers together with their islamic religion and the need for a Mosque. Tucked away in what is now the suburbs is the first Mosque constructed in the area. We meet the curator there and were given a very interesting and entertaining history of Camels, their handlers and islam in Australia.

The Mosque in Broken Hill

Inside the Mosque

Again tucked away in the suburbs we visited an old ice cream cart, originally owned by Badsha Mahommed Gool. On 1 January 1915 a fatal incident took place on this spot, known as the The Battle of Broken Hill. Two men shot dead four people and wounded seven more, when they attacked a train taking picnickers from Broken Hill to Silverton, before being killed by police and military officers. The attackers were both former camel-drivers working in Broken Hill. Badsha Mahommed Gool, was an ice-cream vendor, and his partner Mullah Addullah, a butcher and local imam. The attackers left notes connecting their actions to the hostilities between the Ottoman and British Empires, which had been officially declared in October 1914.

Ice Cream Cart

During the previous day, reports were coming in of Cyclone Isle which would hit the north west of Australia that evening. It would then push a band of heavy rain across the country over the next day or so. Therefore it wasn’t a surprise when we awoke to find the sun had disappeared and light rain was falling. Although it was a wrench, we had to leave our luxurious accommodation in Broken Hill and move on to our next location of Silverton.
Silverton is only about 30 km up the road from Broken Hill so it gave us time to visit the Indigenous market before we left. Having watched some traditional dancing, bought some local art and sampled a Kangaroo Hot Dog, it was time to leave.

Traditional Dance

By now the rain was getting harder and dampening down the normally hot and dusty landscape. The roads around Silverton had turned from dust to mud but still drivable. We visited the local reservoir and a view point but with both under sodden skies we didn’t linger long. An undercover tour of the Mad Max museum was our preferred activity for early afternoon followed by lunch at the local cafe.

On the road to Silverton

Silverton Main Street

Outside the Mad Max museum

Inside the Mad Max museum

Silverton is small settlement with no more than around 50 permanent residents. It gives you the impression of an American wild west town with a handful of buildings surrounded by a barren landscape. The centre piece is the Silverton Hotel which would be our accommodation and dinning option for the night.

Silverton Hotel

On the horizon, a wind farm could be seen, albeit shrouded by the now heavy rain, with over 20 turbines rotating in the wind. Neil was one of the main instigators in getting these colossal structures built and was recognised immediately when we walked into the hotel. The owners (Peter and Patsy) greeted him as a friend as did others during our stay. Drinks before and after an early dinner were the order of the day, plus guitar playing and singing as the alcohol took hold. We left the party earlier and missed the arrival of a large Australian Tarantula, which Patsy swiftly intercepted and put in a jar of methanol, before it could cause anyone harm. We heard the story at breakfast the following morning and saw the results as the pickled spider sat in a display jar alongside other trophies of dangerous visitors.

Inside the Silverton Hotel

Australian Tarantula captured that day

Deadly collection at the Silverton Hotel

Wind Farm at Silverton

Although the sun was now shinning it had rained heavily all night. This had caused a burst of greenery and pockets of standing water that hadn’t been there the previous day.
We didn’t delay in leaving Silverton as we had a four hour drive in front of us. Our next destination was Lake Mungo the significance of which is explain below (3). We had booked a tour for 16:30, a dinner reservation at the lodge in the evening and tented accommodation over night. The excitement grew as we got ever closer, that was until we turned on to the access road and met with a sign stating our road of choice was closed. We phoned the help line hoping to find another route but were informed that the heavy rains had made all the dirt road to Lake Mungo impassable.

Road Close to Lake Mungo

It was now around mid-day and our bed for the night had been cancelled so we needed a new plan. After deliberation we decided to push on to the town we had planned to visit the following day. Echuca was a further four and half hours drive south but it still seemed the best bet. We managed to organise accommodation en-route and rolled into Echuca as darkness set in and nearly nine hours after we had left Silverton. On the plus side we had a bed for the night and would have more time to enjoy the area having arrived earlier.

Although a little jaded from our long drive the day before, we were keen to make the most of our stay in Echuca. After breakfast Neil left us as he had to return to work. Whilst we, together with Steve, set about exploring the town. A walk along the river bank and through the historic dockland area was followed by a Paddle Steamer cruise along the Murray River. The cruise lasted for an hour and included commentary on the history of the town and river (4). We passed bridge pillars that indicated the flood levels achieved over the last 100 years or so. The height seemed unbelievable and surely would have flooded much of the town on many occasions. The Murray River reached heights in 2022 not seen since 1916.

Echuca 2022 Flood level

The Murray River paddle steamers

Echuca Moama Bridge with lever of flood water recorded

Echuca Old Pier

The afternoon was spent shopping and transferring from our hotel room to another luxurious property for our two remaining nights in Echuca.

The plan for the next day was to explore the surrounding area.
We started with a morning visit to the Kow Swamp in the Gunbower National Park. A large shallow lake full of bird life. This was followed by an excellent steak lunch in a local hotel, but not before we engaged in conversation with a local fisherman. A conversation about the local area that was both interesting and informative.

How Swamp

Brown Falcon with lunch in his talons, a little bird

For the afternoon our destination was the Barmah National Park. Late afternoon is the best time to see wildlife so we timed our departure accordingly. The plan worked and we were treated to some amazing Kangaroo and Emu sightings, even if the bird life was a bit sparse.

A Roo

Grey Kangaroos aka Roos

Emus

That brought us to the last day of the road trip. With no hurry to get back to Port Melbourne we decided to take the longer scenic route via the Wombat State Forest. A stop at Trentham Falls and the quaint Trentham village punctured our journey back. As did an unplanned stop when a branch from a tree fell on the car. We were just passing some road works when a digger hit a tree causing a rotten branch to fall on the car. Fortunately there was no damage and was able to continue our journey without much delay.

Trentham Falls

We completed our stay in Victoria at Neil & Nikki’s place in Port Melbourne (See Australia 2023 P1 for details).

Observations & Interesting Facts

(1) Being an ignorant westerner I was interested to know how to correctly refer to what is generally known as Aboriginals. I didn’t like this term and felt it may be derogatory. What better way to find out than to ask our Budj Bim guide, who was from the Gunditjmara Aboriginal people. He said, although opinions may differ, he was happy to be referred to in any format - Aboriginal, First Nation, First People, Indigenous or Black Fella’s. What he said was important was that they were noticed and treated the same way as all other Australians.

(2) BHP the massive mining conglomerate stands for Broken Hill Proprietary’s who rich history began in a silver, lead and zinc mine in Broken Hill. Incorporated in 1885, BHP engaged in the discovery, development, production and marketing of iron ore, copper, oil and gas, diamonds, silver, lead, zinc and a range of other natural resources.

(3) Mungo National Park is a protected national park of 110,967 hectares, that is located in south-western New South Wales. Mungo National Park is the traditional meeting place of the Muthi Muthi, Nyiampaar and Barkinji Aboriginal Nations. People are no longer able to climb the sand dunes by themselves as stricter rules have been enforced, all visitors groups need to be accompanied by an accredited tour guide to access the sand dunes.The national park is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Willandra Lakes Region. The Mungo National Park is noted for the archaeological remains discovered in the park. The remains of Mungo Man, the oldest human remains discovered in Australia, and Mungo Lady, the oldest known human to have been ritually cremated, were both discovered within the park. They were buried on the shore of Lake Mungo, beneath the 'Walls of China', a series of lunettes on the South eastern edge of the lake. (courtesy of Wikipedia)

(4) Echuca, Victoria State, is on the confluence of the Murray and Campaspe Rivers. The border town of Moama is adjacent on the northern side of the Murray River in New South Wales State. Echuca lies within traditional Yorta Yorta country. The town's name is a Yorta Yorta word meaning "meeting of the waters”. At Echuca, the Murray River is at its closest position to Melbourne which contributed to its development as a thriving river port city during the 19th century. In 1850 an ex-convict named Henry Hopwood purchased a small punt to ferry people and goods across the Murray River near the Campaspe junction. The small settlement known as Hopwood's Ferry grew to become the town of Echuca. By the 1870s, Echuca had risen to prominence as Australia's largest inland port and railway junction. Paddle steamers would arrive at the 332-metre long redgum wharf, were unloaded by hydraulic crane, and the goods then transported by rail to Melbourne. Wheat, other grains, livestock, and timber were the most common commodities transported to Echuca. The expansion of the railways from Melbourne to most parts of Victoria, as well as improvements to roads and fickle river conditions all combined to lessen Echuca's importance, and by the 1890s the paddle steamer fleet was in decline. An economic depression and the collapse of several banks virtually ended Echuca's role as a major economic centre, and its population began to disperse.