Uganda 2024 ( Entebbe to Murchison Falls)

JUNE 2024

It had been almost 24 hours of travelling by the time we emerged from Entebbe International Airport in Uganda. A journey that had taken us from our home on the south coast of England to where we stood now, being greeted by our driver/guide, Innocent, in the hot Ugandan sunshine. A taxi ride to London Heathrow Airport was followed by fourteen hours in the air, via Doha’s vast and sprawling International Airport (see below) where we spent a few hours to change planes.
As you can imagine we were pretty tired by now, having not slept much during the flight. But this did not stop us from observing our surroundings as we were driven the short distance to our accommodation for the night. The route to the guest house gave us our first glimpse of Lake Victoria (see below) and our first “African Massage” (see below).
An early diner, washed down with Uganda’s excellent Nile beer, and a full night sleep completed our first day in Uganda.

We awoke the following morning to the sounds of the Hadada Ibis and knew we were back in Africa. It was an early start, 05:30am, to our first full day in Uganda. A light breakfast, then Innocent whisked us of to the nearby Nakiwogo boat jetty, for our visit to the Mabamba Swamp. The area around the jetty was full of market stalls, selling mostly fruit and vegetables but also cloths and hardware.

Market in Entebbe

Ferry just coming in and unloading produce at Nakiwogo Jetty

Innocent introduced us to our boatman and soon we were on our way across one of Lake Victoria’s large inlets. We hadn’t noticed how windy it was when we were on land but it was a different matter now we were on the water. The further from the shore we got the choppier the water. By the time we reached the middle the waves were higher than the boat. I for one became a little concerned at this point. Conversely our boatman seemed calm and unconcerned as he skilfully negotiated the waves and after about an hour deposited us in the serenity of the Mabamba Swamp. At this point we transferred to an Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) Boat in the company of a UWA birding expert.
Our mission was to find the rare and elusive Shoebill, a bird that only resides in this part of Africa and is listed as vulnerable. However, it was our lucky day, as no sooner had we entered our first swamp channel, standing in front of us was a majestic Shoebill. Well over a meter tail and weighing in the region of 5kg this prehistoric looking large grey bird was hunting in the shallows. It didn’t seem concerned by our presence which meant we were able to spend quality time watching it. With our mission complete there was still time to explore more the narrow swamp channels and observe the multiple bird species that live within it. With the one hour birding safari complete we returned back across the inlet, which thankfully was far less choppy now, to meet up with Innocent again and start the long drive to Murchison Falls National Park.

Your boat to Mabamba Swamp (from Entebbe)

Shoebill, a monogamous bird, will lay up to 3 eggs but only 1 will live on and the stronger will kill it's siblings

Mabamba Swamp

Jacana bird

Outside of Entebbe and on the outskirt of Uganda’s capital city Kampala, the traffic became congested. This meant that progress was slow but did allow us to observe people going about their daily business, most of which seemed to be conducted close to the road side. Products for sale were on display outside in the open air and consisted of everything imaginable, including large items such as beds. What ever you wanted it seemed that someone was selling it. Whilst we gazed out of the car windows, Innocent had to deal with the crazy traffic. Road rules seemed not to exist and Boda Boda motorcycles (see below) weaved between cars and truck almost without a care in the world.

Driving through Kampala

Outskirt of Kampala

Outskirt of Kampala fruit market

Once clear of Kampala the roads became much quieter and we made good progress. We were now passing through rural Uganda where most the inhabitants were subsistence farmers. Although many seemed to be able to grow a surplus to trade in the small towns we passed through. We broke our journey with a few stops, a couple to stretch our legs and one for lunch.

Bananas for sale

Pit stop at local town market to buy some fruits for the road

Fruit market

Road side trading

It was late afternoon by the time we arrived at the entrance to the Murchison Falls National Park. Innocent took care of the paperwork whilst we watched Olive Baboons roam around looking for food and mischief.
A tarred road runs through the centre of the park, running north to south. Built with Chinese funding, with the aim of making access easier to their oil and gas operations north of the park boundary. We followed this road north, first through the densely forested southern section of the park, where baboons lounged along the roadside and monkeys peered down from the trees, then across the Victoria Nile and into the northern section. Once across the bridge the scenery changed completely. The landscape was more open and antelope could be seen grazing.
After a short section of dirt road and as the light began to fade, we arrived at our accommodation. A large lodge with views across the Albert Nile and beyond. Tired but excited by our first full day in Uganda, we dined then crashed out in our comfortable room.

Entrance to Murchison Falls NP

Sunset over the Albert Nile

It was another early start to the next day for a morning game drive. Now away from the main tarred road and on narrow bumpy dirt roads we were able to appreciate the rolling savannah scenery to the full. Wildlife was plentiful, including the Ugandan Kob, a new antelope for us. It was nice to see Giraffe in greater numbers than we had seen anywhere else in Africa (the Rothschild sub species resides in this part of the world). Bird life was everywhere and a good sighting of a Marshall Eagle (world largest Eagle) was a particular highlight. Views from this elevated section of the park were spectacular with the River Nile visible much of the time.
What was unusual was to see Palm trees as they are normally associated with north Africa. Innocent explained that they are an invasive species brought into the park by elephants migrating from South Sudan. The seeds, deposited in the dung of the elephant, thrive in the manure fed fertile soil and are now all over the park.

Murchison Falls National Park

Mother and young Kob

Male Kob

Murchinson Falls NP with Heartbeast and Palm Trees in the background

Rothshild Giraffe

Bushbuck

Martial Eagle, the biggest eagle in Africa

Patas Monkey, endemic to Murchison Falls NP

A leisurely lunch and a bit of relaxation around the lodge was followed by the afternoon activity.
A 40 minute drive back down the tarred main road got us to the bridge across the Victoria Nile. Just below was a small boat jetty with a number of river boats awaiting custom. We were booked on the 3 hour round trip to see the bottom of Murchison Falls. We joined another 10 tourists and began our journey up stream. Action on the riverbanks kept us entertained as we slowly progressed. Hippo’s, Croc’s and a variety of bird life were on display, even Elephants were seen drinking and bathing.
The force of the water was too great to get close up to the falls but they produced a spectacular sight from our safe distance. We then returned to the jetty to complete the trip. A pleasant enough afternoon, but a few too many tourist for our liking.
Back at the lodge it was beer and cocktails whilst we watched the sun go down.

Big smile on a Nile Crocodile

Elephant family

African Fish Eagle drying its wings

Bottom of Murchison Falls

Another early morning start to the next day and another boat trip on the Victoria Nile to look forward to. But things didn’t go to plan. Soon after leaving the lodge we came upon a young bull Elephant in the middle of the road. He was content feeding at the roadside and had no intention of moving any time soon. We made plenty of noise to encourage him to move on but he was not budging. We were soon joined by a couple of park rangers, none of us going anywhere. Finally the only option was to go off-road and go round him. Which we did, pleased to have a vehicle with the capabilities to do so.

You won't pass until I am ready to stop eating! which is going to be awhile

We were now late for the boat so Innocent phoned ahead to explain our predicament. Progress was now swift, that is until we came across a family of Spotted Hyena’s crossing the road. We had to stop and watch for while until they disappeared into the bush. We eventually arrived at the boat jetty to find that our boat had already left. Not a problem though. A another boat was waiting to speed us to the tour boat. Finally we boarded the tour boat and joined another customer for what was to turn out to be a very enjoyable morning on the water.

Spotted Hyena

With three like minded tourist in the boat and a wildlife expert in control we slowly traveled down the Victoria Nile to its delta in Lake Albert. This time the boat trip was much more to our liking. Plenty of time to study the birds and mammals around and to get some good photographs. Pamela, the other tourist in the boat, was a keen birder and had some serious photographic equipment to capture everything she saw. We all got on very well which enhanced the experience. The birdlife was amazing with another Shoebill sighting, albeit in the distance. The Shoebill sighting was only possible by climbing on the roof of another boat, under the instruction of our park ranger.
Large pods of Hippo’s congregated in shallow inlets. Several large Croc’s lined the river bank. Water Monitor Lizards lay in trees and bushes close to the water. Best of all though were the Elephant sightings. Several lone Elephants feeding and drinking in the shallows plus a visit of a whole family just before the trip ended. The family consisted of several young, one of which was having a great time playing in the water.
Although the boat trip was predominately geared to wildlife watching it did have the bonus of seeing Lake Albert from the lake itself. Once we reached the Victoria Nile delta and before turning back, we cruised into Lake Albert. Another one of the vast African lakes. As we paused to admire this great expanse of water or guide explained how it supports the people living along its shores. It came as no surprise to find out that fishing is the main occupation for the lake-side communities, both on the eastern shores in Uganda and western shores in the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is also a similar story to most regions of the world, that over fishing has depleted stocks resulting in a smaller catch. This fact became even more poignant as we observed numerous small fishing vessels boobing about on the lake surface during our return to the Victoria Nile.
A fantastic morning on the water.

Male Olive Baboon waking up!

Olive Baboons lounging

Malachite Kingfisher

Red-Throated Bee-eater

Hippo

Hippo out of the water are not common sighting during the day

Pied Kingfisher

Nile Crocodile

Young elephant playing in the water

Itchy bum, nice tree scratch

Lake Albert

Fishermen on Lake Albert

There was now still time to visit the top of Murchison Falls before returning to the lodge for a late lunch. From the falls carpark we were accompanied by Phillip, a park ranger, to the edge of the Victoria Nile. At this point the river is a raging torrent, squeezed through a 7m gap before tumbling 43m to continue its journey. A very impressive sight indeed. However, we were not looking at the original falls. In 1962 a storm flow caused the route of the river to change and created what we see today. To distinguish between the two falls the current one is called Freedom Falls, as it coincided with the country’s independence. Phillip was full of interesting facts and legends which made the experience even more enjoyable. Such as it used to be believed that there was a snake at the end of the rainbow, which is formed by the spray, sucking up all the water. But especially the marriage story (see below).
The boat trip and the falls experience was enough excitement for one day. So we returned to the lodge for food and relaxation.

Victoria Nile going over into the Murchison Falls

Throat of Murchinson Falls

Victoria Nile leaving Murchinson Falls

It was now time to leave Murchison Falls National Park and travel south to our next location. More of Uganda in Part 2 ……..

Personal Observations & Interesting Facts

Doha International Airport
Doha Hamad International Airport has got to be the largest airport complex we had ever seen. Surprisingly, considering the amount we travel, this was our first visit.
The first thing you notice is the heat. It was around 06:00am when we arrived and the temperature was already 33C before the sun had risen.
An air conditioned bus shuttled us to the terminal building. A swift and efficient service but one that took about 20 minutes to complete. The airport complex is so big, because of the amount of air traffic it handles, there are limited Jet Bridges available for direct access to the terminal building. Albeit still dark, airport lighting provided us with a good view of the complex as we made our way to the terminal building. Covering an area of 22 square Kilometres it’s a vast aircraft carpark.
Once in the terminal building, you joined thousands of other traveller most of which were searching for their connecting flight. This requirement is catered for by large departure screens everywhere plus terminals that will read your ticket bar code and direct you the gate you need. If technology is not your thing, then there are helpful staff at the information desks.
Doha presents itself as the “Best airport in the world”, an accolade that it is surely a contender for.

United Nations
The United Nations has a large presence in Uganda and has done so for many years. It provides aid and economic assistance throughout the country from its base right next to Entebbe airport. Large warehouses and administration buildings line its own aircraft runway with planes, helicopters and other vehicles parked nearby ready for use.

African Massage
Although Uganda’s main roads are in pretty good condition. Once you leave them this is no longer the case. Large potholes peeper the untarred surface and provide a bumpy ride for the occupants of any vehicle using them. The bumps and shakes provided by these roads is known locally as a “African Massage”. For which we had many during the next two and a half weeks.

Lake Victoria
Lake Victoria is the fourth largest lake in the world and one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately 59,947 km2 (bigger than Switzerland) its Africa's largest lake by area. In terms of volume, Lake Victoria containing about 2,424 km3 of water and occupies a shallow depression in the centre of Africa. Its average depth is about 40 m and a maximum depth around 80 m.

Lake Victoria

Boda Boda Motorcycles
Boda Boda motorcycles are usually Bajaj Boxers, made in India. They are cheap to buy and maintain and have an extended seat to carry passengers and anything else that needs transporting. Usually the rider doesn’t own the motorcycle and just rents it on a daily basis. This is the most common form of taxi in Uganda, normally ferrying people short distances around town or to neighbouring districts, for a fee based on the distance travelled. Items carried are not restricted to people. During our time in Uganda, I think we saw everything imaginable being carried on a Boda Boda; animals, bananas, pineapples, wood, gates, furniture, you name it we saw it. Originally these motorcycles were used to transport people across East African borders and that’s where the name seems to originate. The price of a new motorcycle starts at US$1,000, but secondhand they are much cheaper.

Boda Boda

Boda Boda loaded

River Nile
The River Nile is the longest river in the world. Its source is at Jinja in Uganda, as its waters exit Lake Victoria. It then travels 6,650km north to exit into the Mediterranean Sea. Its only major tributary is the Blue Nile that is sourced in Ethiopia and joins the White Nile in Sudan.
Its journey through Uganda starts at the source when it leaves Lake Victoria. The northerly flow takes it through Lake Kyoga before being squeezed through a narrow gap at Murchison Falls. The flow then turns west into Lake Albert, which is considered the end of the Victoria Nile. The waters exit Lake Albert and flow north, now known as the Albert Nile. Finally exiting Uganda and flowing into South Sudan.

“Change a Tyre”
This is an expression used by the the river boatman in reference to a wild toilet stop. You can request a “change of tyre” whilst out on a boat trip and the boatman will find a safe place to stop and let you out. He will direct you where to go and provide you with paper and shovel. You are then required to bury your deposit and clean the shovel before returning to the boat. An experience we fortunately never had to have.

Cross river marriages
The legend goes as follows. In the past, before colonial rule, two tribal groups wished to cement a degree of friendship and cooperation. To do so, a man from one tribe would request to marry a women from the other. The problem was the Victoria Nile lay between them and at this point paddling across was not possible. But it was also the narrowest point in the river, so the solution was to pole vault the gap. If the man was successful he could marry the women from the other tribe. Failure to make it across usual meant the disappearance over the falls. Many young men weren’t convinced about the process. That was until the tribal chief proved it could be done and from then on no-one had an excuse.