Costa Rica 2025 - Part 2

FEBRUARY & MARCH 2025

Now on the move again, we head further north west to the town of Bijagua. Our route is more rural and the roads are less well maintained. But the scenery makes up for it, especially as we gain altitude.
A three bedroom house on a small private reserve was home for the next three nights with plenty to see in the area.
It was pleasantly cooler than the previous few days as we drove out of Bijagua towards the Parque National Volcan Tenorio, the higher altitude of the cloud forest making the difference.
From the car park a well maintained path ascends through primary forest. Our first stop was at a waterfall, but not before we spent time watching a young Northern Tamandua feeding in the lower canopy. What makes this waterfall unique is the turquoise lagoon at its base, caused by a mix of minerals in the water influenced by their volcanic origins. Further up the trail was a volcano viewpoint, but clouds obscured most of it by the time we arrived. Finally the trail descended to another turquoise lagoon before we retraced our steps back. Further sightings of the young Tamandua and a snake on a log caught our interest on the way back. We later discovered that the snake was an Eyelash Pit Viper (Silver/Green Morph), one of Costa Rica’s venomous land snakes.

Waterfall in Volcano Tenoro NP

The rare northern Tamandua, a tree anteater

The Eyelash Viper, one of very venomous snake

Northern Tamandua

The day was completed by a guided night walk around the local area. Our guide, Johnathan, was particularly knowledgable about the flora and we were fortunate enough to see some local fauna as well. The sighting of a rare Northern Olingo was a highlight, together with a Two Toed Sloth and an Opossum, all spotted by us and not the guide.

Night walk in bijagua with a small snake on the trail

Northern Olingo, Bijagua

The following day started with us following our local guide Johnathan, on his motorcycle, out of town. After a short drive we turned off the main road and followed a track up into the hills. The track was heavily rutted and a bit overgrown but dry, so 4WD was not required. We parked at the top of the track and were immediately greeted with a magnificent view. From this elevation we could see for miles. Volcanos to the west, across into Nicaragua and Lake Nicaragua to the north with forest in all other directions.
We were in a private reserve set aside for nature. For the next 3 hours we followed Johnathan along various trails as they zigzagged through the forest and open pasture. Although was didn’t see an abundance of wildlife the area was beautiful. Johnathan did his best to spot thing for us and in doing so we learned a bit more about the smaller creatures that occupy the cloud forest. Johnathan believed there would be a fair chance to spot a Tapir, but in the end all we found was fresh tracks and a pile of poo. All in all a very pleasant morning.

Three toed Sloth, they really blend well into the foliage

One of many frog species on our day walk

Our guide for the day looking for a way through the jungle

Day walk in private reserve in Bijagua

View over Nicaragua and Lake Nicaragua

Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Bijagua

Day walk from Bijagua

The afternoon and evening were spent enjoying the environment and the house. Birds were plentiful and a troop of Howler Monkeys paid us a visit. The Howlers appeared from the southern forest and then traversed the trees immediately outside the house, only a few meters in front of us. They then paused to eat and finally fell asleep, wrapping their tails around a branch for stability, in a tree next to the house.

Lesson's Motmot

Great Kisdadee

Howler Monkey getting ready to take a nap

Using the rope bridge to bridge the gap between trees over our accommodation

Time for the afternoon siesta. The whole troup of Howler Monkeys were chilling out just outside our accommodation

Crested Guan

The road to our next location, Santa Elena, first took us south west through a hot and arid landscape before turning east into the mountains. The mountain road was steep, mostly paved but with massive potholes, and very windy. The views were stunning though.
Our accommodation in Santa Elena was amazing. A modern villa with great views over the surrounding countryside, yet only a few hundred meters off the main road up a steep gravel track.
The villa had a great living space both inside and out. There were two bedrooms, one on each side of an external corridor. We had one bedroom and Rob had the other one to himself, or so he thought.
It was the first evening and we were about to retire, when Rob came bursting back into the kitchen and requested the services of the eviction team. Anne and I followed him back to his room and were greeted by a large black scorpion residing above the curtain rail. Realising he would not be able sleep with this unwanted guest in the room, I performed the eviction and we all went to bed.

On the road to Santa Elena with our trusty Bronco

Unexpected Guest for Rob

Pot hole road

Our first day in Santa Elena comprised of a visit to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve and chilling out at the villa. Access to the reserve was up a steep rutted gravel track then on foot from the carpark. Trails weaved their way through a dense forest of moss cover trees. At times it was eerily quiet, almost no bird sound and virtually no other tourists. Spotting wildlife was particularly challenging due to the foliage but we did see a couple of new birds and briefly had the company of some Coati’s. A viewing tower provided extensive views across a large section of the country as well as the forest canopy.

Taking a break from the forest we spent the next day looking around the two small towns near by, Santa Elena and Monteverde. We visited a few local craft and souvenir shops to see if there was anything worth bringing back home.
Our only wildlife encounter for the morning was with some frogs. Santa Elena has a small complex where they house a selection of Costa Rican frogs, called the Frog Pond. Not the sort of place we would normally visit but it had good reviews so we gave it a chance. Once you get over the fact that the frog are kept in relatively small glass units, the complex was well run and the frogs cared for. It was quite good fun searching for the frogs within the foliage and fascinating to see the variety of sizes and colours the various species had to offer.
After having lunch out we returned to the villa and enjoyed an afternoon of relaxing and bird watching.

Front Pond in Santa Elena/Monteverde

one of the many frogs that blend with their environment

Town of Santa Elena

The next day it was back into the forest, this time the Cure Cancha Reserve. The reserve is beautiful even if spotting birds is a challenge. We did however see a couple of new birds and some White Faced Monkeys.

Hiking in the Cure Concha Reserve

White Faced Monkey

Northern Emerald Toucanet

Yellow Thrated Toucan

On the move again, this time out of the mountains and in the direction of San Jose. The road out was much better than the one in, paved all the way. It was a slow descent, partly because of how windy the road was but also because of the slow traffic. This wasn’t an issue, we weren’t in any hurry and it gave us a chance to appreciate the scenery.
Once out of the mountains we followed the main road towards San Jose before branching off to the small town of Atenas. We stopped for lunch in the hills near Atenas, before arriving at our accommodation.
You feel you are still in the countryside when in Atenas, yet you are only 30 minutes from San Jose International Airport. Rob was leaving us the following day, hence the location choice.

View over the mountains on our way to Atenas

Valley view before arriving in Atenas

The day after Rob’s departure we drove west to the Pacific coast. Route 34 hugs the coast and we followed it south bound. This was a particularly pleasant drive, as the road was in good condition, very few trucks and with regular views of the Pacific Ocean. Our accommodation in Uvita was up in the mountains and access was via a steep unpaved road, fortunately our Ford Bronco Sport was up to the challenge.
When we arrived in Cahuita at the start of the trip, the accommodation blew us away. A secluded modern villa with a pool, surrounded by wildlife. We feared we had peaked too early.
We shouldn’t have worried. The mid trip accommodation at Santa Elena just about surpassed Cahuita. A modern villa set on a private estate up in the mountains with great views and lots of birdlife. It couldn’t get any better, or so we thought.
The accommodation we now had in Uvita was even better. Again set on a private estate, totally secluded, views across a forested valley to mountains beyond, a variety of birdlife to keep us entertained, private pool and a beautifully appointed living area, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen. It was almost impossible to drag ourselves away to explore the surrounding area.

Our accommodation in Uvita

Yellow Throated Toucan, a daily visitor at our accommodation in Uvita

Fiery Billed Aracari

As expected we spent our first day chilling out in and around the villa pool, enjoying the environment and seclusion. Our only visitors were the birds, a few lizards and a Coati trying to get into our compost bin.
The next day was one of exploration. We took the short drive along the coast to the small town of Dominical. We looked around its craft markets, ventured on to the beach and observed the people and their activities. Lunch was taken at a coastal restaurant between Uvita and Dominical, where we consumed tasty seafood whilst gazing out at the Pacific Ocean. Sunset from a viewpoint on our estate completed our day.
With all the exertions of the previous day we spent our final full day on the estate. Early morning was spent at the estate gym, not for a work out but for the view. From here you get a good view of the famous Whale tail. Part the Parque Nacional Marino Ballena its a sand bar and only exposed at low tide. When exposed it looks like a Whale’s tail and it’s best viewed from above. We lounged in the chairs outside the gym, viewing the ocean in front of us and the forest clad mountains all around us. A breeze kept us cool and only the pool back at the villa forced us to move. The rest of the day was spent around our villa and pool, with only the bird for company, bliss.

Margarita cocktail at Dominical Restaurant

View from the restaurant near Dominical

Dominical

Market at Dominical

Dominical Beach

The Whale tail in Uvita

Sunset over Uvita from our accommodation

It was hard to leave our idyllic villa in the mountains but there was more of Costa Rica to discover. The next day we drove two and a half hours further down the Pacific coast to the Península de Osa and the town of Puerto Jimenez (See Costa Rica 2025 Part 3).

Personal Observations & Interesting Facts

On the Road in Costa Rica
We made several observations during our time driving in Costa Rica, here are a few of them:
1. There appeared to be an above average number vehicle that had crashed off the road than you would expect. We passed numerous cars and trucks, severely damaged, down ditches, perched on bank and even wedged between trees. To be fare these situations seemed to diminish as the trip progressed.
2. On major roads, it is common to encounter lane closures with little or no warning. Concrete blocks are placed in the lane to protect vehicles crossing the carriageway. These became an extra consideration when overtaking on a dual carriageway.
3. Speed humps provide a vital roll to slow traffic in built up areas. However, it appears they only get painted when they are installed and constant traffic and the weather soon erase the markings. So with very few warning signs you can easily get caught out by them.
4. Directional road signs do exist outside urban areas but are infrequent. However, when you enter the towns and cities of Costa Rica there are none at all. This means finding your way in, out and through requires the assistance of modern technology, Goggle Map or equivalent.

Cost of Food & Drink
The cost of food and drink caught us out a little in Costa Rica. A supermarket shop cost as much or more than it would in the UK. Some items in particular being pricey; potatoes and cereal for example. Dinning out was again similar to UK prices. Probably the most expensive Central or South American country we have visited.

Costa Rica National Bird
The national bird of Costa Rica is the Clay Coloured Thrush, which was a surprise when they have so many more colourful options. It holds a special place in the heart of Costa Ricans. As its melodious song is believed to summon rains during the arid season, which has subsequently been woven it into the fabric of local folklore and daily life.

Clay Coloured Thrush, Costa Rica national bird