South Africa 2022 - Drakensberg & Kruger National Park

JUNE 2022

Although we said goodbye to Rob in part 1 of our South African adventure we welcomed two more friends almost simultaneously. No sooner had we dropped Rob off at departures we were joined in the hotel by our good friends Carole and Olivier. They had just completed a lengthy journey. First they flew from Montreal, Canada to London, England. Then after a long lay over, from London to Johannesburg, South Africa. They were a bit jet lagged but had enough energy for a couple gins and a bite to eat in the pub next to the hotel before retiring to try and get their body clock sorted out.

The next day was a long drive south, from Johannesburg down to the Drakensberg Mountains. The scenery was fairly flat and uninteresting for the first part of our 4 hour trip but as we got closer to the mountains it improved considerably. This was the first time Carole and Olivier had been in South Africa so everything was a new experience. The first of those experiences was our shop en-route for groceries.

Getting ouf Johannesburg, 4h00 of not so interesting scenery

On the way to the Drakensberg

Once we left the main road for the final few kilometres to our accommodation, just outside Winterton, the road condition deteriorated. Still tarred but with massive potholes. Avoiding them was a challenge, made worse when not following a local who knows the road.

Local road in the Drakensberg

Home for the next six nights was a delightful cottage, just outside the town on Winterton and with great views of the mountains. We had stayed at the cottage before so everything was familiar and just as good as we had remembered. This is winter in South Africa so it wasn’t a surprise to see snow on the top of the mountains (see Drakensberg Mountains below) which contrasted with the warm sunny conditions we were enjoying below.

Our Cottage in Drakensberg

View over the Drakensberg from our Cottage

Everyday was warm and sunny, which gave us the opportunity get out and explore.

Hiking in the mountain foothills occupied three of those days. The fresh mountain air and beautiful scenery made us feel good and provided an excuse to indulge in the local food and drink afterwards.

Giants Castle section of the Drakensberg

Sterkspruit Falls walk

Beer tasting

Drakensberg Scenery

Monk's Cowl hike in the Drakensberg

The rock on the left side is the Monk's Cowl

When not hiking we would investigate other attractions the area had to offer, museums, art & craft galleries and local markets. On the Sunday we had a Braai at our cottage, a typical South African thing to do. Beautiful cuts of meat with fresh vegetables, washed down with Savannah Ciders.

Firing up the Braai

The Old 19th century shop who is now a museum

Step back in time a the re-creation of a local shop

One of the non hiking days we visited the local town of Winterton. An experience that exceeded our expectations.
We were first welcomed to the town by the car minder, as he directed us to a vacant parking space in the high street. He then assured us the vehicle would be safe under his watch, hoping to be rewarded for his work, which he was.
Across the street was the Post Office, the main reason for our visit to the town. The postmaster was very helpful and somewhat entertained by the number of postage stamps we needed to purchase. He enquired where we were from and hoped that we would return to his establishment soon. It was heart warming to see how proud he was of his Post Office and the service he offered, something that is rare these days. Even if the postcards took six months to arrive.

High Street Winterton

On leaving the Post Office we spotted a little shop selling Biltong. Biltong (see below) is a favourite snack in Southern Africa and as Carole and Olivier had never tried it, this seemed the ideal opportunity to introduce them to it. Inside the shop there was a vast array of flavours to choose from and the shop owner kindly explained each of them. Following a sample tasting we left with a selection to munch on.

Biltong selection

Biltong Shop

Next stop on our Winterton tour was at the museum. Another warm welcome was offered on our arrival and the curator seemed very pleased to have foreign guests once more. Spread over two floors with some larger items outside, the museum documented the history of Winterton and the surrounding area. Photo’s, documents and artefacts bought the whole thing to life and was fascinating to look around.

Winterton Museum

Winterton Museum

What was meant to be a short stop in Winterton ended up taking a couple of hours. By this time we were hungry and thirsty so a short drive to a local farm restaurant was called for.

As mentioned earlier, this was the first trip to Southern Africa for Carole and Olivier and to my mind it wouldn’t be complete without going on safari. So with this in mind we altered our itinerary to incorporate this. The only problem was we weren’t in the right part of the country to achieve this. Having assessed our options we decided our best bit was to return to the Kruger National Park.

The distance from the Drakensberg to the Kruger was too far to comfortably do in a day so we decided to overnight on route. Our plan was to get the bulk of the journey done on the first day which would allow time to travel to the Kruger and an afternoon in the park on the second.

The small town of Carolina was our chosen destination for the overnight stop. Nothing there of note except for a comfortable Bed & Breakfast to stay at. We arrived in the late afternoon and after a bit of relaxation went out for dinner.
Our hosts at the B&B had informed us that there was only one restaurant in town so that is where we went. Coalers Restaurant and Pub was just off Carolina’s main street accessed by an alleyway. We parked outside and assessed our options. On one side of the building was the pub, with music pumping, fruit machines flashing and full of cigarette smoke. On the other was an empty room full of tables and chairs. We choose the latter and entered. This was obviously the restaurant as used cutlery and crockery still lay on the tables. A lady quickly appeared, showed us to a table and cleared up the mess left by the previous diners. At this stage we didn’t know what to expect but as the evening progressed we were treated to a very pleasant dining experience. Our waitress, who had obviously had a hard day, soon relaxed around us and became very welcoming even teaching us some Zulu phrases. The chef ran the kitchen on his own and served up some very tasty food, which we washed down with beer and cider. An unexpected but very enjoyable evening.

B&B in Caroline on our stop over from Drakensberg to Kruger

The Coalers Pub Menu (not to share)

The following day, after a hearty breakfast, we were back on the road again heading north towards Hazyview. Hazyview would be our access point into the Kruger National Park and we had three nights booked on the same estate we stayed with Rob.
By early afternoon we had unloaded the car and dinned on the veranda of the accommodation. We were now ready to go on safari. The excitement was building as this was Carole and Olivier first African safari and I always love going on safari. Unfortunately that excitement soon turned to disappointment when we arrived at the entrance gate. A sign reading “No entry, park quota reached” was what we were greeted with, the first time ever we had not been granted access. However, we turned that disappointment to renewed vigour and went back home to plan our safari’s for the next two days.

It had not been light for long when we awoke the next morning. We had planned an early start to ensure entry to the park and were pleased we had, when we joined a queue of cars at the park entrance. It took almost an hour to get in the park but once in the wait was worth it. It was a beautiful day and the wildlife was plentiful. We spent the whole day watching wildlife, only breaking for a late breakfast at Skukuza Camp.

Central Kruger

Cape Vulture

Oxpeckers on a Giraffe's back

Spotted Hyena and Pup sharing a meal

Spotted Hyena finshing breakfas

Spotted Hyena mother feeding her young

Lioness on the prowl

Impala

Lilac Breasted Roller

Gaggle of Oxpeackers

African Squirels

Nile Crocodile

Elephants

Buffalo herd crossing

Filled with enthusiasm the next day was more of the same, albeit in two different locations. Another early start and another good morning’s wildlife watching. We then returned to the cottage for lunch and to wait for our afternoon/evening activity to start.
We wanted Carole and Olivier to experience a night drive and as we couldn’t self drive in the Kruger after dusk, we booked one with a private game reserve. Our choice was the Sabi Sands Game Reserve which has an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park. Around 14:00 we were picked up from our front door and driven into the Sabi Sands reserve, about an hour and a half by tarred and dirt road. Once in the reserve there was time for refreshments before the game drive began. We were joined in an open safari vehicle by four Americans, which made a party of ten when you added the driver/guide and a spotter perched on the front. Wildlife spotting for the first two hours was enjoyable but not that notable (for us as seasoned safari goers).

Driver and spotter on our night drive

Bateleur's Eagles

Elephant rear end

However, just before dusk the excitement levels rose considerably when three White Rhino’s, a family of mother, father and baby, were spotted amongst some bushes. We ventured over to get a better look and spent around 15 minutes in their company before they disappeared out of sight.

White Rhino

It was now getting dark and time for our sundowner so we parked under a tree, disembarked and had our sundowner drink. A nice sunset even if the catering wasn’t up to the usual standard.

Sunset

If the late afternoon drive hadn’t been that spectacular it was all about to change as night fell. Firstly, we were almost joined on our sundowner experience by a Spotted Hyena that was out on recognisance. He or she glanced over at what we were doing before continuing on, passing about 10 meters from the back of the vehicle.
Back in the vehicle we didn’t have to wait long for more excitement. Negotiating a narrow track through long grass we came upon a Leopard out looking for a spot of dinner. Unsurprisingly our company was not welcome and it disappeared into the long grass a few minutes after being spotted. We searched with spot lights but it wasn’t going to hang around for our pleasure.
Still buzzing from the Leopard sighting, news came over the radio that a male Lion was chilling out by the side of the road not far from us. We raced to the location and joined two other groups parked a respectful distance from the Lion. He didn’t seem to mind the company and continued to doze while we attempted to take photo’s. After a while he needed to stretch his legs, just in case the girls needed his assistance in the evening’s hunt, and strolled off roaring to announce his presence. We all followed until he settled down again. He still didn’t seem to mind our presence, which couldn’t be said of the Impala which made a hasty retreat when we all turned up. In all we probably spent about 30 minutes in his company before leaving him in peace.

Lion on the move

Lion at Night

Lion

After that sighting we all felt it couldn’t get any better, but it did. Almost back at camp we came across another Leopard. This one was bigger and bolder than the last, and tolerated us for some while as we followed it along a narrow path. Eventually, enough was enough and it disappeared into the undergrowth.

Leopard

Leopard

Surely that was the end of the excitement for the night, but no. With the camp lights looming in the distance another Spotted Hyena crossed our path. It disappeared in to the undergrowth but not before we got a good look.
With so many sightings at the end of the day we were late back to camp but we hadn’t missed our dinner, which had been delayed for our return. A beautiful meal then followed before we met up with our driver for the return journey back to the cottage.

Even now the excitement was not yet over as we met a herd of Elephant by the side of the road. We cautiously tried to pass only to be sternly told to back up by an ear flapping matriarch. We duly did as requested, soon finding out what had annoyed her. The kids were still on the opposite side of the road and we were not allowed to pass until they had crossed. We waited a few minutes until all were present and correct, then was permitted to continue our journey. What an amazing evening.

The following day was a bit subdued after the excitement of the previous night. Added to it being our last day in South Africa and other than a bit shopping, the only activity for the day was the drive back to Johannesburg Airport. The drive complete and the hire car returned, all that was left was to board the plain for the flight back to the UK. On the bright side, Carole and Olivier were joining us on the flight and would spend a few days with us before returning to Canada.

Personal Observations & Interesting Facts

Mode of Transport
We hired a Nissan X-Trail with 4x4 option for the entirety of the the trip. This gave us enough room for 4 adult, luggage and provisions. The 4x4 mode wasn’t needed but we were pleased to have the safeguard.

Weather
In the Drakensberg we had no rain. Most days were sunny with temperatures ranging from mid 20’s C during the day and circa 2-6 C at night.
In the Kruger & Hazyview it was sunny every day and a little warmer than in the Drakensberg.

Drakensberg Mountains
The Drakensberg is the eastern portion of a mountain range known as the Great Escapement, that stretches northwards up as far as the Limpopo Provence. In KwaZulu Natal, where we were staying, the Escarpment reaches its greatest elevation of almost 3,500 meters. It also forms the border between South Africa and the tiny country of Lesotho. In fact Lesotho occupies the plateau on top the Drakensberg Mountains and is completely surrounded by South Africa. Waterfalls tumble down the sheer cliffs of the Drakensberg and form many important rivers in South Africa. One of these is the second highest in the world. The Tugela Falls has a total drop of 947m and is only surpassed by Angel Falls in Venezuela with 979m.

Local People
Meeting local people allows us to better understand the country we are travelling in. Although we don’t seek out interaction we encourage it when it is offered. Although almost all conversations are informative and interesting, some individuals leave a greater impression than others.
The Postmaster in the small town of Winterton who was so proud of his Post Office and so pleased he could deal with our postcards for us. He even asked us to call again when we were next in the area.
Then there was the lady making baskets. Her shop front was a bus shelter at the side of the road which also doubled up as a workshop were she created her baskets. It was also her child care centre as she had two young children to look after as well. Her work was of the highest quality and priced very reasonably, so we were happy to buy a few to bring home. Although a bit shy to engage in conversation we did have a brief chat and she was very pleased with our custom.

The Weaver workshop

Basket Art Gallery

Biltong
Biltong is a form of dried, cured meat that originated in Southern Africa. Various types of meat are used to produce it, ranging from beef to game such as ostrich or kudu. The cut may also vary, either fillet of meat cut into strips following the grain of the muscle, or flat pieces sliced across the grain. It is related to beef jerky in that they are both spiced, dried meats; however, the typical ingredients, taste and production processes may differ. The word biltong is from the Dutch bil ("buttock") and tong ("strip" or “tongue").