Australia 2023 - South West (Part b)

APRIL - MAY 2023

It was now time to leave Quinninup (see part a) and move on once again. Next destination was the small town of Walpole on the southern coast of Western Australia. A visit to Fernhook Falls broke our journey and it was here that Glenn left us to cycle the rest of the way on the Munda Biddi. The falls were a bit of a disappointment. Expecting to see a wide band of water gushing over a cliff we were greeted with a trickle of water mostly obscured by trees. However, you can’t win them all and we continued our drive to Walpole. After some mix up with our booking, we finally gained access to our cottage. It was a bit old fashioned but comfortable enough with the bonus of having a view over Walpole Inlet. Whilst the sun shined we sat in the garden watching the bird life but retreated inside as a band of rain sweepped in from the ocean.

View from our accommodation in Walpole

Although our first day in Walpole started overcast it had brightened up by the time we were ready for our hike. A path from the cottage led us through a dense woodland of small trees and bushes. Most noticeable were the Paper Bark trees with their soft spongy bark (1). It was also lined with numerous ant hills which caught our attention and impressed us with their construction. Now we were on the coast the flora was very different to what we had seen inland for the past week or so.

Path from our accommodation to the inlet

More coastal Flora

Coastal Flora

Ant Hills

Lovely coastal flowers

At the end of the path we reached Coalmine Beach. A deserted strip of white sand with wonderful views out into the Nornalup Inlet.
Nornalup Inlet is the larger of the two inlets that form a sheltered body of water between the land and the Southern Ocean. The smaller Walpole Inlet is the other.

Coalmine Beach

Having looked for seals and dolphins from the beach without any success we continue our walk to an area known as the Knoll. The Knoll is a peninsula that forms one side of a narrow channel between the two inlets. Our walk was part road and part woodland. The flora was fairly similar to what we had seen earlier in the walk but did include some larger trees as well. At one point we were able to break clear of the foliage and get a good view of the channel between the two inlets.

Inlet Channel

We then retraced our steps back to the cottage for lunch and a well earned rest.

Activities further afield were planned for day two. A short drive west down the South Western Highway, then a 7km gravel road got us to the Mandalay Beach carpark. From here a boardwalk took us to the top the dunes overlooking the magnificent Mandalay Beach. White sand stretched out before us and a turquoise sea crashed against the rocks that bookended the beach limits. We took the wooden steps that lead to the beach then spent time enjoying this breathtaking environment. With the exception of one backpack walker, we had the place to ourselves. Taking in the sea air and a bit of beach combing kept us busy for almost two hours and built up an appetite for lunch that followed back at the cottage.

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

Mandalay Beach

As the cloud cover crept in, we restricted further activities to two short walks, one in the afternoon and one in the evening.

Not far from where we were staying was a forest of giant Tingle Trees. Called giants because they have the greatest girth of any tree in Australia. This got our interest and investigating them became our goal for our last day in the area. Glenn decided to cycle to the forest whilst the rest of us took the car.
However, the forest wasn’t the first port of call that day. Guylaine, Anne and I took a detour to the coast. Conspicuous Cliff was the destination and to see whales from the lookout was the desire. From the carpark a short boardwalk deposited us on top off the dunes, with the beach below and Southern Ocean in front of us. Using our binoculars we scanned the ocean surface but the whales eluded us. Southern Right Whales pass by this point between May and November, but we were probably a bit too early in the season. At least there was a lone surfer to entertain us whilst we waited.

Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Looking back from Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Surfer from Conspicuous Cliff Beach

Leaving the beach it was a short drive to the Valley of the Giants road. This road cut through a dense forest which is home to giant Tingle trees, as well as Karri and She-oaks. Although a stroll through the forest would more than likely reward us with a Tingle Tree sighting, we decided to visit a protected area to view them.
In the heart of the forest, where conditions are ideal for Tingle trees to grow, a protected area has been created. Elevated walkways guide you between massive Tingle trees (2) whilst protecting there delicate roots at the same time. The elusive Quokka (3) also thrives in this environment but we didn’t spot any on our walk.

Tingle Trees

It was inland again for our next destination with a visit to the large coastal town of Albany. Albany provided a little bit of sightseeing and a top up of provisions before we continued our journey.

Merchant Vessel Brig Amity 1816

Porongurup is about a 40 minute drive north of Albany and our accommodation was just on the outskirts of the tiny village. Our cottage for the four nights was superb. Set in its own grounds, about 50 meters from the road and a similar distance from the owners property. Located on a farm, we had sheep and lambs around the back of us and ducks in a pen in front. Its furnishing were comfortable and in a classic style, it had a big kitchen and character art everywhere. We even had a private deck out the back.

Our accommodation

Inside the Cottage

To the back of the cottage was Porongurup National Park and we could see the massive granite outcrops from our deck. The view from the front was of pastures and the Stirling Mountain range in the background.

View from the back of the Cottage

Having arrived in good time we embarked on a visit to the Porongurup National Park (4). A short drive got us to a car park in the woods then it was a steep climb up a gravel path to reach the granite outcrops. Already a bit knackered and with limited time we decided to leave the summits for another day and go to viewpoint instead. A short clamber over bare rocks got us to our goal and we were rewarded with greats views over the surrounding countryside.

Porongurup NP hike

We then retraced our steps, being cautious on the steep downhill slopes, to the carpark. As we drove out of the woods we were joined by a group of male Western Grey Kangaroos. They were feeding in a field to our right but as we passed they decided to show us how fast they could hop and raced along side the car. Their speed was greater than ours and they would occasionally stop to let us catch up. Our main concern was that they may jump out in front of us at any time, so we remained very vigilant. It was a good job we did as one did just that. Back on the sealed road, we stopped for some photo’s then return to the cottage to prepare dinner.

View of the Sterling Range

The weather was warm and sunny the next day and ideal for a visit to the Stirling Range National Park (5). We could see the Stirling Mountains from our cottage but it was almost an hours drive to reach our chosen hike. The drive to the park took us through arid farmland where rows of trees had been planted to help repair the surrounding soil. Once in the park everything was greener. Here the foliage had been protected from the destructive effects of intensive farming. A lot of the lower peaks were rounded and covered in short tree growth, whilst the higher peaks were jagged bare rock. Just after passing through the centre of the range we turned east and climbed the mountain side to a carpark. Here, after admiring the view, we left the car and continued on foot. Our route up the side of the mountain was initially through the woodland that coated the lower slopes. We gained elevation by means of steep steps which eventually got us to our goal, a view point 200m below the summit of Bluff Knoll. At 850m above sea level our view was extensive and spectacular. At this point the steps had taken their toll on our legs and knees which only got worse on the decent. Weary but elated, we arrived back at the carpark and began the drive back. It was at this point we realised how lucky we had been, as a heavy rain swept in from the west and drenched the slope we had been climbing. With the sun returning shortly afterward we were treated to a double rainbow cresting the lower peaks.

Sterling range from the car park

Start of the hike to Bluff Knole

Looking back part way up Bluff Knole hike

Looking down to the car park where we started

Flora in the Sterling Range NP

Steep trail up Bluff Knole

Bluff Knole View Point

The rain arriving

Rainbow

The next morning dawned cloudy with heavy rain arriving soon after accompanied by strong winds. This would dictate our activities for the day. As the weather brightened, Glenn and Guylaine went for a walk in the Porongurup National Park whilst Anne and I explored the farm estate. A gate behind the cottage lead us into the first paddock. But before we could progress very far we needed to inform our farmer host of a new born lamb in distress (6). Having done our good deed for the day we strolled through a number of fields eventually reaching a wood on the boundary of the estate. We had noticed a few birds on our walk to this point but now the quantity was greater. As we started to circuit the woods we disturbed a resting male kangaroo in the adjacent bush. Then we became aware of a screeching sound emanating from the tree tops. Further investigations revealed that it was Red Tailed Black Cockatoos making the noise. We had been wanting to see these birds all trip and were now finally successful. Although they were in the tree tops, binoculars provided a good view. Unfortunately Anne didn’t have her camera, so we returned to the same spot later in the day. Luckily a few were still there and photo’s were secured, albeit fighting against the rain to do so. This second estate stroll and a visit to Mount Barker for provisions completed our day.

The estate and merino sheep

Scarlet Robin

Female red-tailed black cockatoo under the rain

Merino ewe and lambs

The warmth we had been enjoying over the past few days had well and truly gone by the time we awoke on day four. However, the sun was shining and a further exploration of the Porongurup National Park was the order of the day. Glenn had organised himself an all-day cycle ride in the area, so it was Anne, Guylaine and myself that headed off to the far end of the massif. The granite peak in this area is called Castle Rock and is access from a carpark just off the main road. With previous experiences to go by, we were expecting a steep and challenging climb, but to our surprise this wasn’t the case. A trail gradually climbed through woodland with gaps in the trees offering views of the countryside below. After two kilometres we reached the bare granite and a massive boulder perched on an equally large slab “Balancing Rock”. Weathering over time had created this strange natural wonder. A few meters further and we had reached our goal, the access ladder to the Skywalk. A short metal walkway has been attached to the upper edge of the Castle Rock dome to provide panoramic views all over the national park and beyond. This is the Skywalk. To reach the access ladder a bit of scrambling was required. Between the path and the ladder were two very large boulders which needed to be climbed. Fortunately hand holds had been attached to the rock to help with the accent. Once the rock and ladder climb had been completed we were on the Skywalk and the views were magnificent. However, the exercise was not for the faint hearted. The scrambling needed a reasonable agility, the ladder was steep and a bit exposed and there was nothing but fresh air beneath the walkway. Once we couldn’t take in anymore views, we went back the way we came, stopping briefly at another view point.

Balancing Rock

Access to the Sky Walk

View from Castle Rock on top of Sky Walk

Sky walk on Castle Rock

Lunch at the village tea room and more Red Tailed Black Cockatoo watching in the woods completed our day.

Red-tailed black Cockatoo (Male and Female)

Red-tailed black cockatoo in flight

Red-tailed black cockatoo mate for life

The following day brought an end to our four location road trip and we loaded the car and drove back to Perth.
We had one full day in the Perth area before heading north and decided to explore the city before we left. A short self guided walking tour of some of the historic buildings and structures was followed by a very enjoyable visit to the WA Museum.

Elizabeth Quay Pedestrian Bridge

One of the many exhibits at Western Australia Museum in Perth

After six days away in northern Western Australia (See North East - Western Australia) we were back for a short excursion in the south.

Glenn had work commitments so it was just Guylaine, Anne and I that journeyed south. First stop was to visit the “Giants of Mandurah” (7), of which we had time to see two. The giants were located in semi residential areas and required us to drive through a number of housing estates. It was here that we were surprised to see a Grey Kangaroo feeding on someones lawn. Well I suppose it was their home before people moved in.

The Giant of Mandurah with human scale

Then it was onwards south. A stop at Margaret River for provisions and lunch, before we arrived at our final destination of Augusta.
Augusta is a small town almost at the end of a peninsula. We were staying in a very comfortable three bedroom house just a few footsteps from the Hardy Inlet. With daylight still to spare we decided to investigate our neighbourhood. Two minutes walk from our front door found us on a wooden jetty gazing across the Hardy Inlet and out to where the Blackwood River enters the Southern Ocean. What made it even more pleasant was we were in the company of a large group of Australian Pelicans. The Pelicans were on the jetty and adjacent rocks drying their feathers and tending to their plumage. Several Silver Gulls and Pied Cormorants kept them company. As the light faded we returned to our accommodation and set about preparing dinner.

Pelicans Standing guard on Jetty

We left the car in the garage on our first full day in Augusta and explored on foot. We ventured further around the Hardy Inlet, watched locals fish of the numerous jetties and soaked up the atmosphere of the place. Augusta seemed a very pleasant place to live. A late lunch was taken at the local bakery and then we relaxed and enjoyed the comforts of our accommodation.

Australian Pelican Fishing

Australian Pelican caught a fish

Australian Pelican in the Inlet

The next day we were ready to venture further so the car came out of the garage. Our destination was the end of the peninsula some 10km south of Augusta. At the tip is Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and that is where we parked. At this point the Cape to Cape coastal trail starts or ends depending on your direction of travel. We wanted to walk a small section of it and located the first marker post and headed of. The trail hugged the coastline, crossing a number of sandy beaches as it travels north. We followed it, enjoying the stunning coastal scenery as we went. At one point we passed what remained of a 19th century waterwheel, used to provide water for the construction of the lighthouse. It was the start of Whale season so we were constantly scouring the horizon in search of plumes and breaches, but with no luck. After almost an hour our progress was halted. It was high tide which meant that one beach section would require us getting wet and negotiating some pretty slippery rocks. So we called it a day and turned back.

Cape Leeuwin Light House

Water Wheel

Leeuwin National Park, Coast to Coast Walk

That wasn’t the end of our exercise for the day though. From Cape Leeuwin we drove back through Augusta to a spit of land at the other end of town, closer to where the Blackwood River enters the Hardy Inlet. Here we did a circular walk that provided good views of the inlet and were able to watch a Wedge-tail Eagle as it drifted on thermals above our heads.
Finally after a bit of R&R at the house we strolled down to the jetty at the bottom of the road. We were hoping to see the Pelicans again, which we did, but had the added bonus of seeing a Southern Eagle Ray’s. Two Ray’s were patrolling the shallow waters close to the bank providing us with a great view.

Eagle Ray

Eagle Ray

For our last day in Augusta the weather forecast suggested that activities should be undertaken in the morning as rain was expected in the afternoon. Which proved to be correct. We first drove up the coast to Hamlin Bay. Here a headland protrudes into the see and provide a short circular walk. We followed the markers, all the time looking out to sea in case a Whale should pass. Again no luck, but we were informed of how treacherous this stretch of the coast was and the subsequent ship wrecks by various notice-boards.

From there we headed inland for a short viewpoint hike in the Leeuwin National Park before having lunch in Margaret River. The local bakery served up fantastic food which made the journey worthwhile. It was then back to the house to shelter from, what was now, heavy rain.

That completed our stay in Augusta and the following day we drove to Perth. En-route we couldn’t resist another stop at the Margaret Bay bakery to collect some lunch for the journey. We were back in Peppermint Grove by early afternoon, even with a lunch stop, so had time for a visit to the beach. Just to stretch our legs and collect some “fermented grape juice” to celebrate our last day in Australia.
Glenn had prepared a very tasty goulash which was complemented by the local shiraz.

Packing and a couple of short Swan River walks filled our final day in Australia. Guylaine then kindly drove us to the airport and by 19:00 we were in the air heading for the UK.

Last walk before leaving Australia along the Swan River

The almost 17 hour flight gave us plenty of time to reflect on what had been an incredible two months in Australia. It had wetted our appetite for a return trip, as there was so much more to see. And with such good friends living there I am sure we will be back in the not too distant future.
We touched down at London Heathrow Airport at 04:30 the following morning. Then swiftly passed through immigration and baggage collection. Our taxi arrived very soon after and we slept the journey back to Portslade. The sun was shining and the day had began to warm by now, we both felt it was nice to have a home to come back to.

Observations & Interesting Facts

(1) Paper bark tree is a small- to medium-sized tree. It grows as a spreading tree up to 20 m (70 ft) tall. Its trunk is covered by a white, beige and grey thick papery bark which feels soft and spongy to the touch. Native to coastal Australia it grows in swamps, on floodplains and near rivers and estuaries, often on silty soil. Amongst its many uses, the first nation people use the bark to wrap food for cooking.

Paperbark trees

(2) Tingle trees come in a red and yellow variety. They have the widest girth of any tree in Australia, up to 30m in some cases; grow to around 70m high and can live for 400 years. They can only be found is this tiny corner of Australia, where conditions are just right for their growth. Their roots are usually short for a tree and can be easily damaged if the ground around the tree is compressed. Many of the trees have gapping holes in their base, usually caused by fire. A fungi that lives inside the tree is susceptible to bush fires, which is the cause of these holes. Despite this the tree remains stable with new growth strengthening the trunk over time.

Tingle Tree in protected forest

(3) The Quokka is the smallest member of the Macropod family, which also included Kangaroos & Wallabies. Macropod means large feet.

(4) Porongurup National Park covers an area of 26.21 square kilometres . The park is the relic core of an ancient mountain range formed in the Precambrian period over 1200 million years ago. The Porongurup Range forms part of the Southwest Biodiversity Hotspot, which is one of 34 regions in the world noted for a rich diversity of flora and fauna species. The Porongurup Range is culturally significant to the Mineng and Koreng/Goreng sub-groups of the Noongar people. Porongurup or "Borrongup" means totem in Noongar and could represent an animal or a plant that is inherited from a child's parents when born.

(5) The Stirling Mountain Range, or Koikyennuruff, extends for over 65 km. Notable features include Toolbrunup & Bluff Knoll which is the tallest peak in the range. The traditional owners are the Mineng and Koreng groups of the Noongar peoples who have inhabited the region for tens of thousands of years. The Noongar know the range as “Koi Kyenunu-ruff” which means “mist moving around the mountains”. The area was important to Indigenous Australians with the surrounding lowlands providing many sources of food. The women gathered seeds, roots and fruit while men hunted kangaroos and other animals.

(6) The good news tis hat the farmer rescued the new born lamb. Which appeared to have been abandoned by its mother. The latest news we had was that the lamb was doing well, had a belly full of milk and was wearing a nappy.

(7) The “Giants of Mandurah” are enormous sculptures made from recycled items, mainly wood. They have been created by the artist Thomas Dambo, who is famous for his work in recycled materials. There are six sculptures in all, five of which are available to view. The other one, at the time of writing, wasn’t open to the public as it had been vandalised by fire. Each sculpture has a separate location throughout the town of Mandurah. Which encourages both locals and tourist to explore some of the less visited places.

The Giant of Mandurah