Australia 2023 - North West

MAY 2023

Early Sunday morning Guylaine kindly dropped us off at Perth’s Domestic Airport for our three hour flight north to Kununurra. After a 3 hour delay the plane finally took to the sky and briefly gave us a view of Perth’s suburbs. For a short while clouds obscured our view of the ground below but this soon cleared. From then on its was like watching a geological documentary with the aircraft window as our TV screen. The view was amazing, just missing a commentary on what we were witnessing.
For most of the flight the vast almost uninhabited Gibson and Great Sandy Deserts passed beneath us. The colours were spectacular, the white of dried salt lakes stood out against the rust of the desert sand. Claypans filled with muddy red water dotted the landscape. Winter rains had mixed with surface minerals to create multicoloured ephemeral lakes. In places the earth appeared scared, the effect of wind on drying salt lakes. You just couldn’t stop staring out the window in case you missed something.
Three-quarters of the way into the flight the view began to change. Now the earth appeared to be covered with a thin green blanket, as vegetation began to take hold in what was now a less arid environment. A few lakes came into view and then the mighty Ord River signalled our arrival in Kununurra.

Leaving Perth

Aerial desert view

Desert views from the air

Martian Landscape

Desert Views from the air

Getting closer to Kununurra

Ord River

As we stepped off the plane we knew we had arrived in the tropics. The cool autumn air of the south had gone and been replaced by hairdryer warmth of the North. The temperature had doubled since we left Perth, 15C had been replaced by 31C.
Public transport is sparse in Kununurra so we needed our accommodation to organise a taxi for us. But once at our cabin by Lake Kununurra a calmness drifted over us. Birdlife provided most of the sound and the sight of the water was relaxing. We had shopped locally for provisions to cover our two night stay, so could enjoy the environment before things got even more exciting on day three.

Sunset, Lake Kununurra, our accommodation at Discovery Parks

Comb-Crested Jacana

A clear blue sky greeted us the following morning and with temperatures of 34C forecast we decided to do our activities first thing. However, a bit of laziness meant that first thing was closer to 09:00 am.
The plan was to take a walking trail that followed the eastern bank of the Ord River, which at this point also forms Lake Kununurra. The walk started almost right outside our cabin which was convenient. A few steps from our cabin deck was the edge of a small adjoining lake so we thought we would look at that first. As we approached we disturbed a Freshwater Crocodile (1) resting on the bank. This woke us up good and proper and was a good start to an enjoyable walk.
There were lots of birds to admire, including good sightings of a White-Bellied Sea Eagle and numerous Black Kites. Dragonflies and Butterfly fluttered around us as we walked and various insects were busy amongst the foliage. We tried to stay in the shade as much as possible but at times had no choice but to endure the full strength of the sun. It was in one of these shady spots that we got our second view of a freshie. She, based on her size, was basking on the edge of a small body of water and our path passed above her. She allowed us a few moments to take pictures before crashing off into the overgrowth.

Kununurra Walk

Australian Fresh Water Crocodile

Black Kite

Western Rosellas at sunset

By the time we got back to the cabin it was getting very hot so we switched the A/C on and relaxed until the late afternoon.
We had booked ourselves an early evening treat at a smart restaurant, The Pump House, just a short walk from our cabin. In the end the food and ambience was not the only treat. Each evening, just before dusk, we had seen a couple of Fruit Bat (2) fly over our cabin. But on the road just outside The Pump House we witnessed the movement of the whole cauldron (group of bats). Thousands of these flying foxes passed over our heads no more then 20 meters off the ground. An incredible sight. Then once the final one had disappeared across the river, we were treated to an amazing sunset. After all this, the food and drink had some act to follow.

Cauldron of bats over the Pump House

Sunset over the Ord River

The Pump House, as the name suggests, is a tastefully converted old water pumping station with old machinery still in place for the authenticity. The drink were good, beer & cocktails, but the food even better. We started with a shared platter containing beautifully prepared Emu, Crocodile & Barramundi (fresh water fish). Followed by Kangaroo for me and Crab for Anne. Everything was sourced locally and prepared on site. Anne couldn’t manage a desert but I went for the Pavlova with local berries. Full to bursting we staggered the short distance back to the cabin.

Inside the Pump House

Shared platter, Emu, Crocodile, and Barramundi

At 08:15 the following day a minibus picked us up from our accommodation and whisked us off to Kununurra Airport. This would be the start of an adventure we had been wanting to do for many years.
After all the safety stuff, we boarded our Sesna Caravan (Twelve seater aircraft), together with 10 other passengers, and took off heading south. This was a scenic flight so we flew as low as allowed, giving us a great view of what lay beneath us. We first passed over the Ord River and its irrigation system together with the tropical fruit trees that it supports. From there we were soon over the vast expanse of water that is Lake Argyle (3). Beyond the lake, two expansive cattle station came into view, each covering hundreds of thousands acres. Where only the hardy Brahman beef cattle can survive in this harsh environment.

Discovery Park where we stayed and the Pump House where we ate

Kununurra agriculture , mango trees

Cattle ranch in the outback

Lake Argyle

It was then time for the main event. Entering the Purnululu National Park (4) from its northern boundary it wasn’t long before the Bungle Bungles came into view. From the sky you could see the true majesty of these incredible rock formations. Formed 350 millions years ago and then eroded into the beehive shapes we see today, their striped colouring is quite unique. The dark grey bands on the otherwise red sandstone are the result of blue-green algae.

Aerial view of the Bungle Bungle

Bungle Bungle range

Bungle Bungle

Having circled the massif a number of times, so that everyone had photographic opportunities, we touched down on a gravel airstrip a few kilometres further south. This was the start of our two night stay in the park.
We were met at the airstrip by our guides for the day, JB and Gabriele. As our stay in the Purnululu National Park progressed, we found out how knowledgable, engaging and interesting the two of them are. From the airstrip we were transported back towards the massif and the start of the day’s activity. With our pack lunches stowed in our day bag we began our walk along Piccaninny creek (mostly dry this time of year) into Cathedral Gorge. We were in a large group of people with varying abilities, so progress was slow. At strategic points along the way, JB would bring us altogether to explain the geological structure of the gorge and the various flora and fauna we encountered. These stops were generally in the shade as the heat of the day was building, in the mid 30C by the end of the walk. As we progressed the gorge narrowed and we were able to marvel at the Bungle Bungle rock structures from ground level.

Bungle Bungle Beehive shaped domes

Beautiful lights on the walk towards Cathedral Gorge

Walking towards Cathedral Gorge

Aboriginal Rock painting

Cathedral Gorge Rock Structure

Spider caught a dragonfly

Our Guide JB

Around half way in, Gabriele took us aside to explain some Aboriginal rock art and culture. Being Aboriginal himself he had first hand knowledge of this subject. We continued past some potholes, which had become a death trap for hundreds of Cane Toads (5), to the end of the gorge and our lunch spot. Here a shallow lake sits beneath towering rock walls that appear to curve inwards. Hence its name, Cathedral Gorge.

Cathedral Gorge end

Once fed and watered and with photos taken, we all made our way out of the gorge the same way we came in. On the way in, one lady had a fall and couldn’t continue further. And on the way out there were also a number of people struggling, the heat and exertion getting them. We took an optional detour on the way back, providing a great view of the Bungle Bungle domes.

Views during our walk in the Bungle Bungles

Bungle Bungle Scenery

It was then back into the truck for transportation to Bungle Bungle Lodge. This was a tea break for most, before taking a flight back out of the park. But for us it was a time to relax, as we were staying two nights at the lodge. Our accommodation was a steel framed cabin set away from the main lodge area. It was by a dry creek and shaded by trees. A very quiet place with birds offering the only sound. That night we enjoyed a few beers and JD’s before and after a beautiful dinner. We also had the pleasure of Gabriele’s company for most the evening. He kept us engaged with his very eloquent view of the plight of Aboriginal people today, and offered solutions to their situation. We also learnt a lot about his life, all twenty one years of it, and his family (his Great Uncle was Ernie Bridge (6)) and ancestors. In turn, we reciprocated with stories of our lives. A very special and privileged conversation.

Fire pit at the Lodge

Our cabin

Sunset at the Lodge

Breakfast the following day was taken at 07:00am and a very packed itinerary started at 08:00am. Our guide for the day was once again JB, which we were very pleased about. Also because we were a small group with proven fitness he had lots of things to show us. We boarded a smaller truck accompanied by a german couple and two helicopter pilots, who were coming along for the ride.
A one hour drive along the edge of the massif, passing a few Wallaroos on the way, got us to The Bloodwoods. From the carpark we followed a dry riverbed into a narrow, boulder strewn gorge filled with Livistona Palms. The rock formation was very different to the previous day, this was conglomerate (7). The further we went the steeper the track became. We squeezed through and clambered over giant boulders until we reached the stairs at the end of the gorge. Here a viewing platform looks back into the palm filled valley we had just negotiated. Beyond the platform is a cave which is not open to the public, this is to protect the new palm shoot that cover the floor. We returned the way we came, a round trip of about 5km.

Bloodwood Walk

Boulders to conquer

It was now 11:30 and after a short rest and a top up of water we moved onto our next adventure. Four kilometres down the road is the Echidna Chasm, where we had lunch in the carpark before embarking on the walk.
Initially we walked through a palm filled gorge, but that soon becomes narrower and narrower, and then narrower still. Every now and then you have to climb over boulders blocking the way, or duck under some that didn't quite make the floor. Some boulders are stuck between the gorge walls above your head, where luckily they stayed whilst we passed each way. In the end we found ourselves in a gap less than a metre wide, with walls so tall it was quite dark at the bottom. All through the gorge the light reflected off the cliff walls providing a glow of striking colours. These changed with the angle of the sun. When our progress was eventually halted we once again retraced our steps back to the carpark.

Start of the Echidna Chasm Walk

Echidna Walk

Echidna Walk

With another 3km’s under our belts it was time for something a little easier.
The Purnululu National Park is more than just the incredible rock formations that forms the Massif in the western part of the park. There is the vast savannah to the east. To get a better look at this other landscape we visited the Kungkalanayi Lookout. A short climb from the carpark got us to a ridge, then a further climb to our right brought us to the lookout. From this vantage point we could see for miles across a savannah of small trees, grassland and bare earth. The savannah is home to a variety of fauna, including the Red Kangaroo, but other than a few birds we weren’t able to spot anything. It was the hottest part the day by now so we weren’t surprised. The savannah is also home to some unique flora, some of which we were able to study on our climb up to the lookout.

View from the Lookout

One of many flowers in the park

There was just time to call into the Visitor Centre before we had to take our fellow passengers to the airstrip. The German couple were flying back to Kununurra and the helicopter pilots needed to get back to work. We then returned to the lodge in time to have a shower and put our feet up for a while, before it was 18:00 and time for dinner. The food was of the highest quality once again and helped down with beer and JD & cokes. After dinner we had a very pleasant time socialising with a young German/French couple who had just arrived at the lodge to work.

It was a more leisurely start to our last day. Our flight back to Kununurra wasn’t until 10:30 so we took the opportunity to explore the area around the lodge. The flight took a similar route back, with another chance to see the Bungle Bungles from the air as well as the Argyle Diamond Mine.

Our plane to get to the park

Leaving the Bungle Bungle

Flying over the Purnululu NP

The Argyle Diamond Mine (now closed)

Arriving in Kununurra

Back in Kununurra we checked into a downtown motel for the night. A visit to a local art and crafts gallery was our only afternoon activity as it was too hot to wander around the town.

Our flight back to Perth wasn’t until 10:30 so the start to the day was once again leisurely. A bit of breakfast from a local cafe and then vacate our room ready for the airport transfer. Which was the first highlight of the day. Because their normal minibus was in for repairs the owner took us and another guest to the airport in her Ford Mustang 5.0 V8. Surprisingly there was plenty of room in the boot for our luggage which couldn’t be said for the headroom in the back. Even so this was the best airport transfer we have ever had, the sound of the engine matched the beauty of the bird song in the carpark.

our airport transfer

We were back in Perth by the early afternoon so decided to take a look at the Western Australia Art Gallery before we continued on to Glenn and Guylaine’s place for the evening.

We were now getting towards the end of our stay in Australia but still had one more trip before we left (see South Western Australia blog).

Observations & Interesting Facts
(1) The freshwater crocodile, also known as the Australian freshwater crocodile, Johnstone's crocodile or the freshie, is a species of crocodile endemic to the northern regions of Australia. Unlike their much larger Australian relative, the saltwater crocodile, freshwater crocodiles are not known as man-eaters, although they bite in self-defence, and brief, nonfatal attacks have occurred, apparently the result of mistaken identity. The freshwater crocodile is a relatively small crocodilian. Males can grow to 2.3–3.0 m long, while females reach a maximum size of 2.1 m. Males commonly weigh around 70 kg, with large specimens up to 100 kg or more, against the female weight of 40 kg. (courtesy of Wikipedia)

A Freshie

(2) Fruit Bats are also known as Flying Foxes. The normal range is southern Asia down to northern Australia. They are the largest of the many Bat species with a wing span of up to 1.5 meters and can weigh well over a kilo.

The Bats

(3) Lake Argyle is the largest man-made lake in Australia. It has a storage volume of 5,797,000 mega litres. At maximum flood level it would hold 35 million mega litres and cover a surface of 2,072 square kms.

Argyle Lake

(4) For many thousands of years the Bungle Bungle range had a cultural significance to the Jara and Gija Aboriginal people who lived in the area. In fact very few other people knew of their existence until the 1980’s. In 1987, due to the unique landscape, significance to the Aboriginal culture and tourism potential, the Bungle Bungle and surrounding area was established as a National Park. Then in 2003 the Purnululu National Park was listed as a World Heritage Site. Today the park is managed jointly by the indigenous people and the Parks and Wildlife Services.

Bungle Bungles from the air

Purnululu NP

Map of northern section of Western Australia

(5) Cane toads, are tough, heavily built amphibians that have developed a bad reputation in Australia. While cane toads aren’t bad, they are an invasive species that have wreaked havoc on Australia’s delicate ecosystems and biodiversity. Since their introduction to Australia (to eat the Sugar Cane Beatle - which wasn’t a success), they’ve caused local extinctions of several native animals. JB explained, the toads were eating the insects that local birds rely on so the larger birds attacked the toads. However, part of the toad is poisonous and this took its toll on the birds. Eventually the birds worked out that by only eating the internal organs, heart, liver, etc, they could avoid this fate.

Cane Toads

(6) Elected in 1980, Ernie Bridge was the first Aboriginal member of the Western Australian Parliament. He was also the first Aboriginal member of a lower house and the first Aboriginal cabinet minister in an Australian Parliament.

(7) Conglomerate is a clastic sedimentary rock that is composed of a substantial fraction of rounded to sub-angular gravel-size clasts. A conglomerate typically contains a matrix of finer-grained sediments, such as sand, silt, or clay, which fills the interstices between the clasts. (courtesy of Wikipedia)